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littp://www.arcliive.org/details/carpentersguidetOOmillricli 


THE 

CARPENTERS' 
GUIDE 

Treating  on  Lines  and  the  Square 

A  Tv  S  O 

Giving  Practical  Rules  and  Methods 
on  Carpentry 


HARVEY    MILLER 


\'^ 


«  •    -  .  •  • 


Copyright  Applied  for 

1920     . 


o o 

INDEX 

o 

page 

Assemble  a  Roof 85 

Base,  Rise  and  Hypotenuse  in  Framing 30 

Base  Feet  of  Cripple  Rafters 38 

Base  Feet  of  Common  Rafters  36 

Base  Feet  of  Hip  Rafter 39 

BaseFeet  of  Jack  Rafters  38 

Base  Feet  of  Rafters  36 

Base  Feet  of  Valley  Rafter  39 

Cases   and   Cupboards   70 

Common  Rafter 45 

Corn  Crib   77 

Cripple  Rafter  50 

Cut  and  Place  Studding  25 

Door  and  Window  Frames  62 

Excavate  for  Basement  13 

Fence  and  Gauge  for  the  Square  42 

Finish  Floors  66 

Forms  for  Concrete  Wall  14 

Garage  75 

Grade   of  a  Building 8 

Height  of  Ridge 39 

Hen  House 80 

Hip    Rafter    51 

Hog  House  83 

Inside  Finish 66 

Introduction  5 

Jack  Rafter 48 

Lathing   65 

Level  a  Building  10 

Locate  a  Building  7 

Names  of  Rafters 29 

Outside  Finish  56 

Outside  Wall  Sheeting 29 

Pitch  of  Roof  41 


4252h 


INDEX  -  Continued 

Placing  Sills  and  Girders  20 

Placing  and  Spacing  Plates  24 

Planes  and  their  Uses  100 

Plumb  a  Building  28 

Porch   63 

Practical  Hints  \96 

Proportion  of  Concrete 18 

Saw  Trestle   108 

Scaffold   108 

Setting  and  Filing  Saws  : 106 

Sheath  a  Roof  55 

Shingle  a  Eoof  60 

Spacing  and  Placing  Joists  21 

Square   a  Building  11 

Stairs  71 

Stake  for  a  Building  7 

Straight   Edges   98 

Sub   Floors   , 23 

Test  a  Level  100 

Test  a  Plumb  102 

Test  a  Square  99 

The  Square  44 

To  Find  the  Length  of  Ridge 40 

To  Set  Door  and  Window  Frames  63 

Trim    Openings    27 

Truss   Framing    93 

Valley   Rafter   54 

Work    Bench    102 


INTRODUCTORY  SET 

A  long  felt  need  on  a  work  to  explain 
carpentry  in  a  brief,  practical  way  has  in- 
duced me  to  write  this  little  book,  giving 
rules  and  illustrations  that  will  be  helpful 
as  a  guide  to  the  Mechanic,  Apprentice  or 
Student  in  manual  training  in  developing 
ideas  of  construction. 

It  is  not  our  aim  to  illustrate  every  pos- 
sible cut  that  is  to  be  made  with  the  square, 
but  to  give  simple  rules  and  illustrations 
which  will,  by  studying  their  methods,  be 
a  guide  in  making  any  cut  desired. 

By  the  use  of  the  steel  tape-line,  square, 
plumb,  level  and  lines,  one  ma}^  demonstrate 
all  illustrations  with  the  rules  herein  given. 

The  student  may  work  them  out  by 
square-root  or  geometry,  as  all  framing  is 
based  on  horizontal  perpendicular  and  ang- 
ular lines;  but  we  will  treat  them  in  the 
way  they  are  practically  used. 

The  uses  of  lines  and  measurements  will 


be  expiainecf/ 'as  'well  as  the  use  of  the 
square.  The  line  is  used  in  locating,  laying 
out,  and  squaring  a  building,  also  in  lining 
walls,  forms,  partitions,  plates,  measure- 
ments, etc. ;  hence  the  importance  of  lines 
and  their  uses. 

Practical  methods  will  be  given  of  the 
square  as  we  have  used  it  in  construction 
for  twenty-five  years.  The  method  is  the 
same,  whether  cutting  a  rafter  for  a  garage, 
school,  church,  house  or  any  other  building. 

The  square  is  familiar  to  nearly  every 
man,  woman  and  child,  and  is  looked  upon 
as  a  mysterious  tool.  There  are  3  lines 
that  will  give  any  cut  in  framing  to  be 
made  with  the  square,  the  base,  rise  and 
hypotenuse. 

The  rules  and  illustrations  given  in  this 
booklet  will  enable  you  to  make  any  cut 
desired,  and  understand  the  use  of  the 
square  in  obtaining  pitch  of  roof,  length 
and  cut  of  rafters,  braces,  etc.,  also  in 
Truss  bridging  and  bracket  framing.  Our 
aim  in  compiling  this  booklet  is  to  give  to 
others  the  practical  methods  that  would 
have  been  a  guide  to  us  as  Apprentices  and 
Mechanics. 


TO  LOCATE  A  BUILDING 

Draw  a  line  in  the  street  200  feet  or 
more,  in  front  of  the  intended  structure 
parallel  with  the  street  or  road,  then  meas- 
ure in  from  this  line  at  two  different  points 
to  establish  the  line  for  the  front  wall 
parallel  with  the  one  in  the  street.  Locate 
the  two  front  corners  of  the  building.  All 
other  walls  and  corners  must  be  located  and 
squared    from    this    front    wall    line.     (See 


PARM  EL        LINL    OF     ^TUt&T 
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I                                          FRONT  I 

h £0'  -  o" -^ 

FIG.    1 

LOCATE     A    BUILDING 

fig.  1.)  In  this  illustration,  the  wall  line 
is  set  back  40'  from  the  street  line.  The 
building  is  20'x24^  The  two  front  corners 
are  20'  apart,  located  on  the  front  wall  line. 

TO  STAKE  OUT  A  BUILDING 

From    the    established    corners    on    front 
wall  measure  and  stake  the  approximate  lo- 


cation  of  the  other  corners  and  drive  three 
stakes  in  a  triangle  two  or  more  feet  out- 
side of  the  wall  lines,  place  two  boards 
(termed  batter  boards)  at  each  corner  to  be 
nailed  on  the  stakes  when  the  grade  is  es- 
tablished and  the  building  leveled.  (See 
fig.  2.) 

•AKt  S  i  , 

11  1/         l=RONT    WALL    LlNti        //  H 

-. — k: *-i 1 


s/r    I^EJ 


I    ^EJTABLUHED    (lORNER 
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1  ^T 


APPROXIMXTt 
WALL      LINE 


r 


FIG.  2 

TO  JTAKE  OUT  A  BUILDING 


THE  GRADE  OF  THE   BUILDING 

The    grade    is    an    established    line    from 

'8 


Avhicli  all  measureineiits  ar(^  taken  for  the 
height  of  the  building  and  the  depth  of  the 
l)asement.  This  grade  line  is  the  top  of 
the  wall  or  bottom  of  the  sill. 

Take  a  general  survey  of  the  surrounding 
grounds  to  o})tain  the  proper  height  for 
grade  line  and  mark  on  one  of  the  front 
corner  stakes  the  desired  height.  From  this 
grade  mark  all  other  corners  and  angles 
are  to  be  leveled.     (See  fig.  3.) 


r 


I   I 


GRADE     Llr^E 

2   FEET  Above 
THE    OROUND 


FIG.  3 

9 


—I  ^  f 


TO  LEVEL  A  BUILDING 

To   the   stake   designating   the   height    of 
wall   or   grade  line  nail   the   batter  boards 


FIG.  4 

leveled  on  the  triangle  stakes.  From  this 
corner  level  and  sight  to  all  other  corners 
and  mark  the  height  of  grade  line,  then 
nail    the    batter    boards    on    the    stakes    at 

10 


grade  height  around  each  corner  and  angle. 
Measure  the  length  and  width  of  intended 
structure  on  the  batter  boards  and  from 
these  measurements  draw  a  line  on  four 
sides  (fig.  4),  sight  across  to  see  that  all 
lines  are  parallel;  if  they  are  not,  relevel  to 
all  corners  to  find  the  one  that  is  out  of 
level  and  raise  the  same  parallel  with  other 
lines,     {fig.  ^y^.) 

LEVtL 


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HOT     LEVtL 
FIG.  Ml 

TO  SQUARE  A  FOUNDATION 

The  front  wall  line,  parallel  to  the  street 
and  leveled  to  grade,  remains  unchanged. 

Rule  1.  From  the  intersection  of  the 
lines  at  the  established  corners  of  the  build- 

11 


iiig,  meas^ure  6'  on  one  line  and  8'  on  the 
intersecting  line  and  adjust  the  side  line  so 
the  hypotenuse,  or  measurement  between  6' 
and  8'  will  be  10'  (fig.  5).     With  every  ad- 


5 ATT Eft     BOARD5 


FIG.  5 

TO  SQUARE  A  FOUNDATION 
12 


justment  of  the  line,  remeasure  from  the 
intersection  of  the  two  lines  until  the  meas- 
urements are  exactly  6^,  8'  and  10'  and  the 
lines  will  be  at  a  perfect  right  angle  or 
square   (fig.  5). 

Rule  2.  Take  a  steel  tape-line  and  meas- 
ure diagonally  to  the  opposite  corners,  then 
reverse  the  tape-line  to  the  two  opposite 
corners,  and  adjust  the  lines  until  the  meas- 
urements are  the  same  and  the  lines  will 
be  squared. 

This  rule  is  reliable  in  any  building  where 
the  measurements  are  taken  equal  distances 
on  the  side  lines  from  the  two  front  corners 
and  both  ends  of  line  are  the  same  width. 

TO  EXCAVATE  A  BASEMENT 

From  the  lines  that  have  been  leveled  and 
squared  to  the  grade,  plumb  down  for  the 
excavation. 

Cut  a  stake  the  length  of  intended  depth 
of  the  basement  from  the  grade  line  to  the 
basement  floor — allowing  for  the  thickness 
of  cement  floor,  excavate  the  depth  of  this 
stake  from  the  grade  line.  All  measure- 
ments for  depth  of  basements,  walls,  piers, 
footings,  etc.,  are  taken  from  the  grade  line. 

13 


Leave  an  approach  at  one  end  to  draw  out 
the  ground.  When  all  dirt  is  removed  ex- 
cept the  approach,  draw  the  line  in  place, 
plumb  down,  aud  excavate  the  balance  with 
a  shovel.  Where  the  bank  is  to  be  used  for 
the  outside  form  of  a  concrete  wall,  exca- 
vate plumb  with  the  wall  lines,  but  where 
forms  are  used  on  both  sides,  the  depth  of 
the  wall,  excavate  the  outside  of  the  wall 
lines  8''  to  V  to  admit  the  forms. 

FORMS  FOR  BASEMENT  WALLS 

All  bearing  walls  should  have  footings 
sufficient  in  width  and  depth  to  carry  the 
weight  of  the  building  (see  fig.  7),  excavate 
and  put  in  the  footings  before  setting  forms 
for  the  walls.  The  forms  for  a  concrete 
w^all  are  commonly  made  of  board  moulds. 
There  are  different  ways  in  which  these 
forms  may  be  built.  We  will  give  one  of 
the  most  practical  ways  for  a  basement 
wall.     This  method  will  work  for  any  wall. 

Cut  2x4 's  the  length  required  for  parti- 
tion studs  of  the  building  and  use  them  for 
the  upright  supports  of  the  basement  wall. 
Plumb  down  from  the  grade  or  wall  line 
at  the   corners  and   drive   a   stake  directly 

14 


under  the  top  wall  lines.  From  these  stakes 
draw  a  line  to  set  the  bottom  of  the  forms 
plumb  with  the  top  line,  cut  enough  sheet- 
ing boards  of  equal  length  to  make  a  sec- 
tion of  forms  from  the  bottom  of  the  base- 
ment to  the  top  of  the  wall;  set  the  corner 
studding  the  thickness  of  the  sheeting  out- 
side of  the  wall  line;  stake  and  nail  the 
bottom  and  brace  the  top  two  ways  to  keep 
the  corners  plumb.  Nail  a  board  flush  with 
this  studding  on  the  inside  at  the  bottom, 
and  set  another  studding,  centered  on  the 
end  of  this  board,  plumbed  and  braced  at 
the  top  and  staked  at  the  bottom  the  same 
as  the  corner  studding.  Then  nail  another 
board  of  this  section  at  the  top  temporarily 
on  which  to  space  and  set  the  other  studs 
of  this  section.  The  studs  should  be  spaced 
not  more  than  2I/2'  apart.     (See  fig.  6a.) 

From  this  section  measure  to  the  opposite 
corner  and  cut  enough  boards  of  this  length 
to  make  another  section  to  finish  the  outside 
of  the  wall.  •  Space  and  set  studs  as  in  first 
section.  Continue  this  method  on  each  of 
the  outside  walls.  Cut  No.  11  wires  long 
enough  to  span  around  the  studs  of  the  in- 
side  and  outside   forms;  place   one  around 

15 


each  stud  above  the  first  board  of  the  out- 
side wall  and  about  2'  above  this  as  the 
form  is  sheeted.  When  the  inside  form  is 
placed  and  sheeted,  they  can  be  easily  at- 
tained and  tied.     Cut  VxV^  spreaders   the 


KtS    AMD    .SPReADei^     i 


t  L  E.VATIOK  -  I  5ECTIOK 


length  of  desired  thickness  of  the  wall  (fig. 
6).  Cut  the  boards  for  the  inside  sections, 
using  the  same  method  as  for  the  outside, 

16 


placing  studding  directly  opposite  the  out- 
side studding,  except  at  the  corners  (fig. 
6b). 

Set  the  end  of  the  first  section  in  from 
the  outside  wall  %^'  more  than  the  length 
of  the  spreader  to  allow  for  sheeting  of 
returning  forms,  then  place  another 
spreader  between  the  two  forms  near  the 
bottom  of  the  form,  loop  the  wire  around 
the  studs  above  the  first  board,  tie  and  twist 
the  wire  to  hold  the  spreader  and  form  in 
place. 

Nail  temporary  ties  at  the  top  to  stay 
the  inside  form  to  the  outside,  the  thickness 
of  the  wall,  mea&ure  from  this  section  to 
opposite  corner  allowing  for  thickness  of 
wall  and  retui!n  sheeting  the  same  as  the 
first .  corner,  keeping  the  wall  of  the  same 
thickness,:  :  Cut  ejiough  boards  of  one 
length  for  this  section  and  set  the  studs  as 
before.  Continue  this  method  around  the 
inside  of  the  wall.  Place  a  spreader  be- 
tween the  forms  at  each  stud,  where  the 
wires  were  placed,  in  the  outside  walls  as 
the  sheeting  progresses.  Draw  thein  tight 
and  tie  on  the  edge  of  the  studdings;  with 
a  bolt  or  spike  twist  the  wires  taut  enough 

17 


to  hold  the  spreaders  in  place ;  continue 
this  method  until  completed.  Nail  the 
boards  with  6d  nails,  vice  versa,  every  other 
stud.  Continuing  this  process  to  the  top  of 
the  wall,  lay  a  2x4  flat  on  the  ground 
against  the  studdings  and  stake  firmly  to 
straighten  the  forms  and  hold  them  in 
place,  also  nail  a  2x4  near  the  top  of  the 
form  for  the  same  purpose.  Brace  every 
other  studding  to  hold  form  in  place. 
Leave  top  wall  line  in  place  until  all  walls 
are  straightened  and  braced.     (See  fig.  6.) 

CONCRETE  MIXTURE 

For  walls  use  1  part  of  cement  to  6  or  7 
parts  of  coarse  sand  and  gravel,  depending 
on  the  sharpness  of  the  sand.  For  concrete 
five  parts  of  coarse  sand  and  gravel  for  the 
floors  and  walks,  take  one  part  cement  to 
base,  2  to  4"  thick;  basement  floors,  2'^ 
thick;  walks,  3%"  base;  for  the  top  or 
finish  coat  use  one  part  cement  to  three 
parts  of  sifted  sand;  using  I/2  to  %''  of 
this  mixture.  Apply  the  top  while  the  base 
is  moist  so  the  top  and  bottom  will  unite. 
Straight  edge  and  trowel  to  an  even  sur- 
face. 

18 


Where  there  is  no  machine  to  mix  con- 
crete, clean  a  sufficient  surface  of  hard 
ground,  or  lay  a  board  floor  where  the 
ground  is  not  suitable,  close  by  the  gravel 
and  sand,  then  empty  one  or  more  sacks 
of  cement  conveniently  close  and  to  the 
number  of  shovels  of  sand  or  gravel  for 
either  of  the  above  mixtures  add  one  shovel 
full  of  cement  and  with  a  garden  rake  mix 
thoroughly.  Continue  this  operation  until 
a  sufficient  quantity  is  mixed,  then  reshovel 
and  rake  the  pile  again  and  you  will  have 
an  even,  dry  mixture  better  than  can  be 
done  with  shovels  alone  and  a  greater 
quantity  can  be  mixed  at  one  time  by  this 
method.  The  cement  will  not  set  in  a  dry 
mixture.  Moisten  a  portion  of  this  by 
shoveling  onto  a  separate  pile  and  apply 
water  sufficient  to  moisten  to  a  proper  con- 
sistency, mixing  thoroughly  and  place  in 
the  floor  or  wall  forms  and  continue  this 
method  until  the  work  is  complete.  Where 
piers  or  footings  are  needed,  locate  them 
directly  under  the  wall  or  supportiiig  girder 
at  the  required  distance  apart,  the  height 
of  which  is  determined  from  the  grade  line. 
(Fig.  7.) 

19 


For  concrete  floors,  level  the  ground  to 
the  proper  grade,  take  2  2x3 's  or  2x4 's  to 
gauge  the  thickness  of  the  floor,  place  the 
concrete  on  the  floor  the  height  of  the 
gauge,  draw  a  straight  edge  across  the  top 
of  the  gauge  to  level  to  an  even  surface. 
Draw  the  timber  forward  for  another  fill, 
and  straight  edge,  the  same  as  before.  Fill 
the  space  of  the  timber  as  it  is  removed. 
The  same  method  is  advisable  for  the  top 
coat,  take  %  or  %  in  strips  and  apply  the 
top  coat  as  described  above.  The  surface 
should  be  leveled  with  a  wooden  float  be- 
fore trowling. 

TO  PLACE  SILLS  AND  GIRDERS 

When  the  wall  is  seasoned  and  forms  re- 
moved, lay  the  sills  on  the  wall,  the  dimen- 
sions of  the  intended  structure  leveled  and 
bedded  in  mortar.  Where  a  girder  is  re- 
quired, double  two  to  four  thicknesses  of 
2"  plank,  indimention,  to  the  weight  to  be 
carried;  chisel  a  bearing  in  the  wall  so  the 
top  of  the  girder  will  be  level  with  the  top 
of  the  sill,  put  posts  of  6'x6'  or  heavier, 
under  the  girder,  6'  to  8'  apart  for  ample 
support  of  the  building.     (Fig.  7.) 

20 


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SPACING  AND  PLACING  JOISTS 

To  space  the  joists,  measure  and  mark 
15''  and  17"  from  the  corner  on  the  sill 
and  continue  to  space  16"  from  these  mark- 
ings, set  the  joists  between  these  lines  and 
they  win  be  16"  on  centers  across  the  build- 
ing. 

21 


If  there  are  two  rows  of  joists  and  you 
wish  to  lap  them  in  the  center,  space  one 
side  2"  less  in  the  first  space  so  they  will 


FIG.  8 


EMD    J015T  ^ 


run  parallel.  (Fig.  8.)  Where  a  sub  floor 
is  used,  place  a  joist  or  header  across  the 
ends  of  the  joists  for  a  bearing  of  the  sub 

22 


floor.  Also  a  partition  of  rooms  having  no 
sub  floors;  bearings,  or  headers,  should  be 
cut  and  nailed  in  between  joists  to  support 
sub  floors  at  all  openings. 

Locate  chimney,  cellar  and  all  other  open- 
ings and  trim  them  the  required  size. 
Where  the  span  of  the  joists  are  more  than 
12',  cut  a  row  of  bridging  and  fasten  them 
in  place  by  nailing  the  top,  leaving  the  bot- 
tom to  be  nailed  after  the  sub  floor  is 
nailed  in  place.  See  that  the  crown  of 
every  joist  is  up.  Where  there  is  too  much 
crown,  straighten  them  so  the  top  of  all 
joists  and  bearings  are  level.     (Fig.  8). 

SUB  FLOORS 

In  nearly  all  buildings  it  is  best  to  lay 
the  sub  floors  diagonally,  so  the  finished 
floor  can  be  laid  to  suit  the  room.  Measure 
equal  distances  from  the  corners  on  both 
walls  and  place  a  floor  board  across  to 
those  points,  lay  the  sub  floor  from  this 
board,  and  the  floor  will  be  diagonal  or  45 
degrees.  Trim  the  projecting  edges  even 
w^ith  the  outside  of  the  joists  and  flush  with 
all  openings,  nail  all  boards  with  two  8d 
nails    in    each    joist,    placing    the    nail    %'' 

23 


from    the    outer   edge    of   the    board.     (See 
fig.  8.) 

PLACING  PLATES 

Place  and  line  2x4  plates  around  the 
outer  edge  of  the  building,  then  measure 
and  locate  all  partitions,  marking  them  on 
the  plate  and  sub  floor  with  a  chalk  line. 
Line  all  partitions  on  the  sub  floor  to  lay 
the  partition  plates.  To  space  the  outside 
studdings,  begin  at  the  front,  measure  15'^ 
and  17"  from  the  corner  for  the  spacing 
of  the  first  studding,  then  continue  16" 
from  these  markings,  the  studding  will  be 
16"  center. 

For  all  partitions  space  first  studding  15" 
and  17"  from  intersecting  wall  and  con- 
tinue spacing  at  intervals  of  16"  from 
these  markings,  the  same  as  on  the  outside 
wall  plates.  This  will  locate  studdings 
with  16"  centers  for  lathing.  Place  the 
studding  directly  over  the  joists  for  bear- 
ing partitions  where  possible.  Locate  all 
door  and  window  openings  and  mark  them 
oh  the  plate,  then  make  a  duplicate  plate 
for  the  top,  laid  beside  the  bottom  plate, 
and  mark  the  same  spacings  as  for  the  bot- 

24 


torn  plate,  and  the  studs  will  be  parallel 
to  each  other.  Double  the  top  plate  after 
the  studs  have  been  put  in  place  and  raised. 
Lap  joints  at  the  corners  and  partitions 
with  the  top  plate.     (Fig.  9.) 


}feI>0"R->i  jt-DCXiR-*< 


FIG.    9 
TO  CUT  AND  PLACE  STUDDINGS 

From  the   desired   height   of   ceiling,   de- 

25 


duct  the  thickness  of  the  plates  for  the 
length  of  the  studding.  After  this  has 
been  done  and  a  pattern  made,  nail  a  small 
block  to  one  end  allowing  it  to  extend  one 
inch  over  the  sides,  this  studding  is  to  be 
used  as  a  gauge  to  mark  and  cut  duplicate 
studdings.     (Fig.  10.) 


FIG.  10 

All  corners  should  be  doubled  or  trippled. 
(Fig.   11.)     When  the  spacing  is   complete 


CT 


STUDS 


PLATE 

dORHER 


FIG.  11 


26 


and  studs  are  cut,  nail  them  on  the  top 
plates  in  their  respective  places,  trim  all 
openings,  then  raise  the  section  and  nail 
the    studs    to    the    lower   plate.     (Fig.    12.) 


^TOP      PL/kTt 


MtADtR- 

'WIHDOW 


-tN05    or    JOI5 


I5T-' 


z 


dtLUR 
DOOR 


M= 


EHO         JOI3T 


r 

^    5»  LL 


FIG.  12 

Where  there  is  a  ribbon  used  for  the  sup- 
port of  the  upper  joists,  measure  down  the 
thickness  of  the  joist  and  notch  in  the  stud 
the  thickness  and  width  of  the  ribbon  be- 
low the  joist  for  a  bearing,  using  a  1x4  for 
the  ribbon. 

TO  TRIM  OPENINGS 

Cut  a  gauge  stake  two  inches  longer  than 
the  height  of  doors,  plus  the  thickness  of 
the  finish  floor,  and  mark  on  the  studding 
for  the  bottom  of  the  top  trimmer  for  door 
and  window  openings.  For  all  window 
openings,     measure     down    from     the     top 


27 


header  5''  more  than  the  height  of  sash  foi* 
the  top  of  the  bottom  trimmer.  The  allow- 
ance for  the  head  jamb  and  sill. 

All  top  trimmers  should  be  doubled,  the 
side  trimmers  for  doors,  sash  and  casement 
windows,  add  3I/2''  to  the  width  of  the  sash 
or  door  for  side  jambs.  For  a  double  hung 
or  weight  window,  add  6''  to  the  width  of 
sash  for  jambs  and  pockets.  For  a  mullion 
(two  windows  side  by  side)  allow  5%" 
more  for  mullion  between  windows  for 
weight  pockets  and  jambs.  For  sash  or 
casement,  mullions  where  there  are  no 
weights,  allow  the  width  you  wish  for  the 
mullion  casing.     (Fig.  12.) 

In  bearing  partitions  and  walls,  truss 
across  the  openings.  All  door  sash  and 
casements  should  be  doubled  on  the  side, 
set  the  full  stud  on  the  outside  and  double 
under  the  top  header. 

TO  PLUMB  A  BUILDING 

When  all  walls  and  partitions  have  been 
raised  and  fastened  in  place,  nail  a  tem- 
porary brace  board  at  the  top  to  each  cor- 
ner, extending  diagonally  to  the  bottom 
plate.     With    a    straight    edge   and  plumb 

'28 


plumb  each  corner  and  angle,  fasten  the 
bottom  end  of  the  brace  board  to  keep  the 
frame  plumb  until  the  walls  are  sheathed, 
or  permanent  braces  are  cut  between  the 
studs.  See  that  all  plates  are  straight  be- 
fore placing  upper  joists.     (Fig.  12.) 

OUTSIDE  WALL  SHEATHING 

In  most  countries  the  outside  is  sheathed 
before  a  finish  siding  is  put  on.  Begin  at 
the  bottom  of  the  sill  and  sheath  up.  Cut 
all  door  sheathing  flush  with  sash  and  case- 
ment window  openings.  For  double  hung 
or  weight  windows,  let  the  sheathing  boards 
extend  2"  in  the  opening  to  form  a  pocket 
for  the  weights.  Put  two  8d  nails  in  the 
boards  at  each  studding.  Trim  all  corners 
flush.  Keep  all  openings  and  corners 
trimmed  as  you  sheath. 

NAMES  OF  RAFTERS 

There  are  different  kinds  of  rafters,  viz : 
Common,  Jack,  Cripple,  Hip  and  Valley 
(see  Fig.  13).  A  common  rafter  extends 
from  the  plate  to  the  ridge.  A  Jack  rafter 
extends  from  the  plate  to  intersection  of 
the  hip.  A  cripple  rafter  extendi  frbm  the 
yalley   to   hip   or   ridge.     A  hip   rafter   ex- 

29 


tends  from  the  corner  of  the  plate  to  the 
ridge  diagonally.  A  valley  rafter  extends 
from  the  intersection  of  two  roofs  at  right 
angle  to  the  ridge  and  runs  parallel  with 
the  hip  rafter.     (See  fig.  13.) 


FIG.  15 

BASE,  RISE  AND  HYPOTENUSE 

There  are  three  lines  on  the  square  with 

30 


which  all  cuts  are  obtained.  The  base,  rise 
and  hypotenuse  (the  angular  line  from  base 
to  rise),   (see  fig.  14).       It  is  important  to 


FIG.  14 


understand  their  relative  uses  in  framing. 
Study  the  rules  and  demonstrations  herein 
given.  The  base  represents  the  horizontal 
line  and  is  reckoned  in  feet.  Every  hori- 
zontal line  represents  one  base  foot  in 
framing.  Twelve  inches  is  the  base  of  the 
square  for  common,  jack  and  cripple  raft- 
ers, brace,  truss,  bracket,  bridging,  house 
and  barn  framing,  and  nearly  all  framing 
at  right  angles;  the  12'''  base  does  not 
change    on    the    square    for    obtaining    the 

31 


pitch   of  roof,  angle   of  brace   and  various 
cuts,  as  the  rise.     (See  fig.  15.) 


/ 

s- 

/ 

- 

1 1 1 1 1  i7i  1 

1  1  i^6T^Pi-i-i-|-ri 

r 

FIG.  15 


.  The  base  of  a  hip  or  valley  rafter  is  W . 
The  diagonal,  or  hypotenuse  of  a  12"  square 
is  nearly  17".  Every  foot  on  the  plate  rep- 
resents one  base  foot  of  17"  for  a  hip  and 
valley  rafter  (see  fig.  16).  This  base  does 
not  change  in  obtaining  the  different  pitches 
of  roof  (see  fig.  17).  Then  a  17"  base  with 
the  same  rise  used  in  the  12"  base  will  meet 
at  thet  same  point  on  the  hips  after.  (See 
fig.'lS.) 

The  Rise  is  the  perpendicular  line,  and  is 

32 


■trc. 

ETC/ 

Vi 

/ 

rsiJ — ' 

/ 

^/ 

9 

h- 

Vi 

M 

^/ 

nl 

u. 

h 

y 

< 

< 

y 

f 

Q^ 

u 

J2"       . 

/ 

.jg 

. 

a. 

COM.  R.        / 

H 

/ 

a: 

at 

oj 

8 

nl 

Xn^ 

c 

y 

.V 

^^" 

RTfc 

FIG.  16 


- 

'   ::.-•■•  :  ^-  . 

0- 

■  ■/\.    -   ' 

- 

,:-,-■/     ■     - 

<3-^ 

-  '    ■-  ■               ''"'■-  y 

r.     y            .  ^  ^ 

"5 

/                ^        "          ^      r^ 

x  >r^-/'^'  t:'- 

,t- 

■    - 

•    -          :---  X   -/i^/^r^-^C-  '  ^—    ''.J.    - 

^« 

1     i.\   to 

1    (1    M 

.r->r^4;^f^^f-rfff^^H 

•  IT 


^88 


.  r 


.  I  i  .  1  I  i^-i  I  >  tVr  I  I  I  i  i  I  I  I  I  t 


FIG.  18 


used  on  the  square  at  right  angle  to  the 
base.  Every  inch  or  fractional  inch  rise  to 
one  base  foot  gives  a  different  pitch  of  roof, 
angle  or  cut.     (See  Figs.  15  and  17.) 

The  Hypotenuse  is  the  angular  line  from 
the  base  to  the  rise  and  is  the  pitch  of  roof 
and  length  of  rafter  in  one  base  foot  which 
is  obtained  by  raising  the  Eise  to  the  de- 
sired pitch  or  angle  (see  fig.  15).  It  is  used 
with  the  base  instead  of  the  rise  for  the 
angular  or  face  cut  for  Jack,  Cripple,  Hip 
and  Valley  rafters  that  meet  the  ridge,  Hip 
and  Valley  rafters,  which  will  be  explained. 

34 


The  base  of  an  Octagon  is  13'',  used  with 
the  same  Eise  of  the  common  rafter,  to 
meet  the  same  point.  The  difference  of  the 
radius  and  the  distance  to  the  corner  of  the 
octagon  is  1"  to  every  radius  foot.  (See 
%.  19.) 


FIG.  19 


We  will  use  repetitions  of  many  of  the 
35 


rules  here  given.  If  the  Mechanic  or  Stu- 
dent does  not  understand  them  in  one  form, 
they  may  comprehend  them  in  another. 

TO  FIND  THE  BASE  FEET  IN  A  RAFTER 

To  find  the  number  of  base  feet  of  a 
rafter  is  absolutely  necessary  in  framing  a 
roof.     The  base  of  a  rafter  is  the  number 


k-  —  a    B/kSE  FT. ^    e    FT. — 

FIG.  20 

of  horizontal  feet  to  be  spanned  by  the 
rafter.  (See  fig.  21.)  It  is  advisable  to 
draw  the  dimensions  of  the  roof  at  14" 
scale,  and  mark  the  rafters  in,  as  shown 
in  fig.  13. 

BASE  FEET  OF  COMMON  RAFTERS 

There  are  as  many  base  feet  in  a  com- 
mon rafter  oi  a  Hip  roof  as  there  are  num- 
ber of  feet  in  one-half  the  width  of  the 
bliilding.   (See  fig.  21.)     There  are  as  many 

36 


kilalSI^ISIftlTlels 

4  .o   1         1        I 

■^V  r      i^     1^      l<o 

K^^A'                l<                  l*^ 

— -^  ^  r 

1                 1 
'                 + 
1                 1 
1                 1 
1                 + 
1                 1 

u-i-                1 

1       t 

^k  1 

lO     BASE    FT. 

"'^      a     BA5E    FT.                                         ^^ 
e      BAJt    FT.                    *^S^X       «'| 

ul                   > 
*'              y^ 

rr                 5 

nl 

-'^          <                     1  y<iK                   GABLE 

'y      \         1         1         *-/ 

*-  -  4    FT. ilf- B    FT,  - 

4- 

f 

COM  MO K 


I 
<U        I 


no.  21 

37 


base  feet  in  a  common  rafter  of  a  gable  roof 
as  there  are  number  of  feet  in  half  the 
width    of    the    gable.     (See    fig.    22.)     Or, 


u- 


1  fe        FT. 

FIG.  22 


->\ 


there  are  as  many  horizontal  feet  from  the 
plate  to  a  perpendicular  line  of  the  ridge 
with  any  Rise  to  obtain  the  required  pitch. 
BASE  FEET  OF  JACK  RAFTER 
There  are  as  many  base  feet  in  a  Jack 
rafter  as  there  are  number  of  feet  on  the 
plate  from  the  corner  to  the  center  of  the 
rafter.     (See  fig.  21.) 

BASE  FEET  OF  CRIPPLE  RAFTER 

There  are  as  many  base  feet  in  a  cripple 
rafter  that  extends  from  the  valley  to  the 
hip  as  there  are  number  of  feet  on  the 
plate  from  the  corner  at  the  hip  rafter  to 
the  center  of  the  valley  rafter,  or  from 
corner  to  angle.     (See  fig.   21.)     The   base 

38 


of  a  cripple  rafter  that  extends  from  the 
valley  to  the  ridge  of  a  gable  roof  is  the 
number  of  feet  on  the  ridge  from  the  inter- 
section of  the  valley  and  ridge.  The  raft- 
ers are  set  out  on  the  ridge,  2',  4'  and  6', 
and  have  respective  base  feet.  (See  fig.  21.) 

BASE  FEET  OF  HIP  RAFTER 

Rule  1.  There  are  as  many  base  feet  of 
17''  in  a  hip  rafter  as  the  number  of  feet 
in  half  the  width  of  the  building.  (See  fig. 
21.) 

Rule  2.  In  cases  where  the  hip  does  not 
extend  to  the  ridge,  there  are  as  many  base 
feet  in  the  hip  rafter  as  there  are  feet  on 
th  plate  at  right  angles  to  a  plumb  line  of 
the  intersection  of  the  hip  rafter. 

BASE  FEET  OF  VALLEY  RAFTER 

There  are  as  many  base  feet  of  17''  in  a 
valley  rafter  as  there  are  number  of  feet 
in  half  the  width  of  the  gable,  or  the  num- 
ber of  feet  at  right  angles  from  the  plate 
to  a  perpendicular  line  of  the  ridge.  (See 
fig.  21.) 

HEIGHT  OF  RIDGE 

When  there  is  a   number   of  inches   rise 

39 


given  to  one  base  foot,  the  height  of  ridge 
is  equal  to  the  given  rise  as  many  times  as 
there  are  base  feet  in  the  rafter.  Add  the 
height  of  the  heel  of  the  rafters  in  line  with 
the  outside  of  the  plate.  (See  fig.  22.) 
When  a  certain  height  of  ridge  is  given  the 
number  of  inches  rise  to  one  base  foot  is 
equal  to  the  height,  reduced  to  inches,  di- 
vided by  the  number  of  base  feet  in  the 
rafter.  The  height  of  ridge,  5'  4",  the  num- 
ber of  base  feet,  8.  5' 4''=64'' -^  by  8,  the 
numT)er  of  base  feet,  gives  8"  rise  to  one 
base  foot. 

TO  FIND  THE  LENGTH  OF  RIDGE 

For  a  hip  roof  the  length  of  ridge  is  equal 
to  the  difference  between  the  width  and 
length  of  the  building.  (See  fig.  23.)  For 
a  gable  roof  that  intersects  a  main  roof,  the 
length  of  ridge  is  equal  to  half  the  width 
of  the  gable,  plus  any  projection  of  build- 
ing from  main  building.  (See  fig.  23.)  The 
dotted  lines  represent  an  offset  of  4',  the 
ridge  in  line  ol  plate  is  8',  niaking  a  total 
length  of  the  ridgie:  12'.  :   .: 

40 


^1 

1               \                                                     / 

\ 

\      /            /              t                    ^,            \ 

Ur  —  8    FT. ^>ik 8    FT. ?4 

1                J..                 1 
1                ^                 1 

J .X : 1 

FIG.  23 

PITCHES  OP  ROOF 

Use  the  2'  square  to  determine  the  num- 
ber of  inches  rise  and  pitch. 

1/2  Pitch  is  1/2  of  24''  or  12''  rise  to  12" 
base. 

1/3  Pitch  is  1/3  of  24"  or  8"  rise  to  12" 
base;  . 

14- Pitch  is  14  of  24"  or  6"  rise  to  12" 
base. 


41 


1/6  Pitch  is  1/6  of  24'^  or  4"  rise  to  12'' 
base. 

Vs  Pitch  is  i/s  of  24''  or  3"  rise  to  12" 
base. 
(See  fig.  24.)     Or  take  1/2,  1/3  or  14  of  the 


- 

oi- 

/_ 

/ 

- 

&^ 

— 

, '/' . 

CO -7 

^ 

'^       /  0*5.-- 

."*' 

«*)^ 

'^/iJ--^^^"^          .       ." 

1    1    1    1    1    i    1    1    1   1    1    Li**--r  1   1   1   L.  1    1    1    1    1 

FIG.  24 

width  of  the  building  for  the  pitch  of  the 
roof. 

FENCE  AND  GAUGE  FOR  THE  SQUARE 

For  rafter  and  stair  framing,  it  is  ad- 
visable to  use  a  square  gauge.  It  simplifies 
the  uses  of  the  square  by  fastening  the 
gauge  at  the  base  and  rise  for  the  desired 
pitch.  (See  figs.  25  and  26.)  A  gauge  or 
fence  is  easily  made  by  taking  a  I"x2"x2' 

42 


I  RAFTER 


xty 


FIG.  25 

piece  of  wood,  rip  edgewise  18'',  and  with 
a  couple  of  screws,  clamp  the  square  at  12" 
hase  and  the    desired    rise,    then    lay    the 


FIG.  26 

gauge  on  the  edge  of  the  rafter,  mark  for 
rise,  and  check  mark  at  base ;  move  the  rise 
to  the  check  mark  and  recheck  as  many 
times  as  there  are  base  feet  in  the  rafter. 
(See  fig.  27.) 

Cry       <;:--v-  v<x^    ^>  «""«-^ 

FIG.  27 
43 


Where  there  is  a  fraction  of  a  base  foot, 
take  the  number  of  inches  on  the  base  at 
right  angle,  and  move  the  square  the  frac- 
tional foot,  6",  and  mark  as  in  former  di- 
rections.    (See  fig.  28.) 


FIG.  28 

THE  SQUARE 

It  is  important  to  understand  the  use  of 
the  square.  The  base,  rise  and  hypotenuse 
of  the  square  used  in  the  different  methods 
herein  given  solve  the  practical  use  of  the 
square.  Every  inch  to  8'^  rise,  with  12" 
base,  gives  8  different  cuts  on  either  of  the 
three  lines,  and  8  different  pitches  of  roof. 
It  also  gives  eight  cuts  for  braces,  brackets, 
bridging  and  truss  framing.  In  roof  fram- 
ing, the  hypotenuse  is  the  pitch  of  the  roof 
and  the  length  of  the  rafter  in  one  base 
foot.     (See   fig.   29.)     Any   cut  in   framing 

44 


i  I  I  I 


JLJ. 


..'^y* 


f  IQ.  29 


may  be  obtained  with  12''  base  and  the  re- 
quired number  of  inches  rise.  There  may 
be  a  hundred  or  more  different  rises  from 
the  base  and  every  one  is  a  square  root,  or 
geometrical  problem,  but  can  be  worked  out 
with  the  square  in  a  practical  way  without 
the  knowledge  of  either  square  root  or 
geometry. 

COMMON  RAFTER 

'There  are  as  haany  base  feet  in  a  common 
rafter  as  there  are  feet  in  half  the  width  of 
the  gable,  or  half  the  width  of  the  building 
in  a  hi^  roof;     (See  figr  21.) 

45 


The  length  of  a  common  rafter  in  one 
base  foot  is  equal  to  the  hypotenuse  of  the 
base  and  rise  and  can  be  obtained  by  meas- 
uring from  the  base  to  the  given  rise.  (See 
fig.  29.)  This  is  true  with  12"  base  and 
any  number  of  inches  rise.     (See  fig.  15.) 

Then  lay  the  square  at  12"  base  and 
the  given  rise  as  many  successive  times  as 
there  are  base  feet  in  the  rafter  to  obtain 
the  length  of  the  rafter.     (See  figs.  30  and 


riKXt.   CUT 


FIG. 30 

32.)  Mark  on  the  base  for  the  plate  cut 
and  on  the  rise  for  the  ridge  out.  (See  figs. 
29,  30  and  32.)  Where  there  is  a  ridge 
board  used  shorten  the  rafter  half  the  thick- 
ness of  the  ridge.  For  an  extension  of  the 
rafter  over  the  plate  for  eave,  and  two  or 
more  inches  left  on  the  rafter  for  support, 
measure  down  perpendicularly  from  the 
spacing  for  the  plate  mark  to  the  bottom 
of  the  rafter.  Draw  a  line  parallel  with  the 
rafter,    2"    from    the    top    edge.     Set    the 

46 


square  to  where  the  two  lines  intersect,  use 
the  base  for  the  plate  cut,  and  the  perpen- 


FIG.  31 


47 


dicular  line,  down,  for  the  outside  cut  of 
the  plate.  (See  fig:  31, )  The  distance 
marked  down  from  the  top  edge  of  the 
rafter  does"  not  change  the  length  of  the 
rafter.  The  top  has  the  same  angle,  but 
raises  the  rafter  and  ridge  the  height  of 
the  thickness  of  the  heel  or  support  in  outer 
line  of  plate.     (See  fig.  31.) 

THE  JACK  RAFTER    -^ 

There  are  as  many  base  feet  iii  a -Jack 
rafter  as  there  are  number  of  feet  on  the 
plate  from  the  corner  to  the  center  of  the 
rafter.  (See  fig^^  21.)  The  base  12"  and 
the  same  rise  used  in  the  common  rafter 
laid  on  the  rafter  as  many  successive  times 
as  there  jire  base  feet  to  meet  the  hip 
rafter,  gives  the  length  of  the  Jack  rafter. 
(See  fig.  30.)  ;.Mark  on  the  base  for  the 
plate  cut,  and  6n  the  rise  for  the  perpen- 
dicular cut  to  meet  the  hip  rafter.  (See 
fig.  35.)  Where  a  heel  of -support  is  let  on 
see  fig.  31.  ;^ 

The  face  or  angular  cut  to  meet  tlie  hip 
varies  with  the  pitcb  and  every  V^rise. 
To  obtain  the  angular  cut  to  meet  the  hip, 
take  the  number  of  inches  in  the  hypotenuse 

748 


pr   the   length   of   rafter   in    one    base    foot 
of  the  common  rafter.     (See  fig.  33.) 

Taking    the    length     of    the    hypotenuse 


H YPOT  E.  N  U  S  El        14- /a -^  ^ 


^ 


i    I    I    M    M    I    I    i    M^l    I   1   I    1    I    M    1   I    I 


FIG.  33 


\Z    AHD     \A%   AMGULAR  CUT 


TT" 


'''''«'''«   i  i    <«'''«'«''    ' 


~  I4'4 


FIG.  34 

4!) 


(141/2")  with  the  base  (12")  on  the  square 
instead  of  the  rise  (see  fig.  34),  and  mark 
back  on  the  length  of  the  hypotenuse  14%" 


r   I  U*  00  ^  ^\HGULAR  COT    12"  AMD  H/x 

for   the   angular   cut.     (See   fig.    35.)     This 
rule  is  reliable  in  any  pitch  of  roof. 

CRIPPLE  RAFTERS 

There  are  as  many  base  feet  in  a  cripple 
rafter  as  there  are  number  of  feet  on  the 
plate  from  the  corner  of  the  hip  to  the  cor- 
ner or  center  of  the  valley  rafter.  (See 
rules  for  base,  fig.  21.) 

To  obtain  the  length  of  a  cripple  rafter, 
lay  the  square  on  the  rafter  at  the  base  and 
rise  of  the  common  rafter  as  many  succes- 
sive times  as  there  are  base  feet  in  the 
rafter.     (See   figs.    30    and   32.)     Mark    on 

50 


the  rise  for  the  hip  and  valley  cuts.  To 
obtain  the  face  cut  to  meet  the  hip  rafter, 
use  the  same  rule  given  for  the  jack  rafter 
that  meets  the  hip.  (See  fig.  35.)  For  the 
lower  cut  of  the  cripple  rafter  to  meet  the 
valley  use  the  same  rule  as  for  the  face  cut 
to  meet  the  hip,  only  reverse  the  angular 
cut  by  marking  across  the  rafter,  and  cut 
parallel  to  the  hip  cut.     (See  fig.  36.) 


AHGLt  CUT  REVERSED  \    ^ 


FIG.  36 

HIP  RAFTER 

There  are  as  many  base  feet  of  17"  as 
there  are  number  of  feet  in  half,  the  width 
of  the  building.  (See  rules  for  base  of 
rafters,  fig.  21.)  To  obtain  the  length  of  a 
hip  rafter,  lay  the  square  on  the  rafter  at 

51 


17'''  base  and  the  rise  of  the  common  rafter 
as  many  successive  times  as  there  are  base 
feet  in  the  hip  rafter.     (Fig.  37.)     Mark  on 


^J^^^  M«P   «^^FTtR   FOR    \0  BA5t   fT.       ^ 

no.  37 

the  base  for  the  plate  cut  and  on  the  rise 
for  the  plumb  cut  to  meet  the  ridge.  (Fig. 
40.)     For  the  angular  cut  to  meet  the  ridge, 


«b 


\% 


s% 


no.  38 


52 


take  the  number  of  inches  in  the  hypotenuse 
of  the  base  and  rise  of  the  hip  rafter  in  one 
base  foot  (fig.  38),  using  this  hypotenuse  to 
mark  on  instead  of  the  rise  (fig.  39),  with  the 


i 


171 


FIG-  39 


CO 


V) 

D 

r 
ttj 

a. 

>- 


HIP   \ND  VALLIY^n'n     ,^^ 


PLUMS    CUT 
\7  AMD  6 


AHGULXR    CUT 
\7  AND    18^ 


53 


base  (17'0  ou  the  square  and  mark  on  the 
length  of  the  hypotenuse  for  the  angular  cut. 
(Fig.  40.)  Take  %  of  the  base  and  hypo- 
tenuse where  required. 

This  rule  is  reliable  in  any  pitch.  At 
the  base  of  the  hip  rafter  cut  off  %"  to 
lower  the  corners  to  line  of  comon  and  jack 
rafters,  or  saw  %"  or  more,  depending  on 
pitch  of  roof,  plumb  down  across  the  cor- 
ner.    (See  fig.  41.) 


CUT  OFF  %" 


Fl(i.4l 


ADD    Ve** 

FIG.  42 


VALLEY  RAFTERS 

There  are  as  many  base  feet  in  a  valley 
rafter  as  there  are  number  of  feet  in  I/2  the 
width  of  the  gable.  (Fig.  21.)  To  obtain 
the  length  of  a  valley  rafter,  lay  the  square 
on  the  rafter  at  17''  base  and  the  rise  of 
the  common  rafter,  as  many  successive 
times  as  there  are  base  feet  to  be  spanned. 
(P'ig.  37.)     Mark  on  the  base  for  the  plate 


54 


cut  and  on  the   rise  for  the  perpendicular 
cut  to  meet  the  ridge. 

The  angular  cut,  to  meet  the  ridge,  is  the 
same  rule  given  for  the  hip  rafter.  (Fig. 
40.)  Mark  %''  lower  than  the  base  mark 
for  the  base  cut  to  raise  the  center  of  the 
rafter  to  line  with  common  rafters.  (See 
fig.  42.) 

TO  SHEATH  A  ROOF 

Line  the  bottom  board  with  the  face  of 
the  rafters.  It  is  rulable  to  space  them  2" 
to  4''  apart  and  continue  this  method  until 
sheeting  is  completed.  At  the  gable  ends 
of  the  building,  let  the  sheeting  extend  over 
the  rafters  the  desired  width  of  the  plancier 
or  eave. 

To  cut  sheething  boards  to  meet  the  hip 
or  valley,  take  the  hypotenuse  of  the  base 


FIG.  43 

55 


and  rise  of  the  common  rafter  with  the  base, 
and  mark  on  the  base  for  the  hip  and  val- 
ley cut.  (Fig.  43.)  For  the  plumb  cut  of 
the  sheeting  boards  for  a  hip  and  valley, 
take  the  length  of  the  hypotenuse  of  the 
base  17"  and  rise  of  the  hip  rafter  with 
the  rise  and  mark  on  the  rise  for  the  plumb 
cut.     (Fig.  44.) 


PLUMB 


FKj.  44 


The  rules  for  cutting  sheeting  in  valleys 
is  used  to  cut  eave  and  plancier  boards  that 
meet  in  an  angle. 

OUTSIDE  FINISH 

The  outside  finish  consists  of  facier,  plan- 
cier, frieze,  corner,  base  boards  and  moulds. 
The  facier  board  is  the  finish  around  the 
outer  edge  of  the  roof.  (Fig.  45.)  The 
plancier  board  is  the  finish  from  the  facier 
to  the  building.  The  frieze  is  the  finish  on 
the  wall  under  the  plancier  and  laps  over 

56 


the  siding.  The  corner  boards  are  the 
finish  around  the  corners.  The  base  board 
extends  around  the  bottom  of  the  building, 
with  a  drip  cap  placed  on  the  top  edge  on 


FIG.  45-A    • 


57 


which  to  start  the  siding.  The  crown  mould 
extends  around  the  outside  of  facier.  The 
bed  mould  is  placed  in  the  angle  of  the 
frieze  and  plancier. 


FIG.  45-B 


Line  up  and  saw  the  heels  of  the  rafters 
for  the  facier  board  and  let  the  facier  ex- 
tend above  the  rafters  enough  to  receive  the 
sheeting,  and  extend  %"  below  the  plan- 
cier. Nail  a  block  under  the  sheeting  of 
the  gable  to  lower  the  plancier  for  a  %" 
margin  on  the  facier  for  rake  or  box  cor- 
nice.    (Fig.  45.) 

58 


A  box  cornice  returns  square  from  the 
facier  to  the  building,  the  plancier  is  sup- 
ported with  a  lookout,  nailed  to  the  rafter 
and  back  to  the  wall.     (Fig.  45b.) 

Rabbit  the  frieze  board  or  furrow  it  out 
to  lap  on  the  siding.  Put  a  bed  mould  in 
the  angle  of  the  plancier  and  frieze.  The 
style  in  fig.  45b  is  called  a  box  cornice. 

There  are  different  styles  of  cornice,  but 
we  w411  not  go  into  details  of  all  the  styles, 
but  will  only  refer  to ,  some  of  them.  Some 
ceil  the  plancier  under  the  rafter  and  break 
square  around  the  corner  for  the  gable 
plancier.  This  style  is  called  ^'Rake  Cor- 
nice." Some  ceil  on  top  of  the  rafters  with 
13/16''  ceiling  instead  of  sheathing  for  the 
finish,  allowing  the  rafters  to  be  exposed. 
At  the  gable  let  the  ceiling  or  sheeting  ex- 
tend from  the  rafter  to  the  facier,  breaking 
joints  on  the  first  and  second  rafters.  Place 
the  corner  and  frieze  boards  on  the  sheath- 
ing when  lap  siding  is  used.  Where  rustic 
siding  is  used  place  the  corners  and  frieze 
boards  over  the  rustic.  Where  a  base  board 
and  drip  cap  is  used,  place  them  on  before 
the  corner  boards  and  siding. 

Paper  all  outside  walls  before  siding,  and 

59 


place .  strips  of  paper  under  the  finish  that 
will  extend  for  a  lap  of  the  wall  paper. 

TO  SHINGLE  A  ROOF 

Nail  a  shingle  at  each  end  of  eave  to  be 
shingled  and  let  them  extend  1%'^  or  the 
desired  distance  over  the  sheeting  for  the 
drip.  Put  a  shingle  nail  in  the  end  of  the 
shingles  and  draw  a  line  taut  across  the 
eaves.  Then  lay  a  double  row  of  shingles 
to  this  line,  being  careful  not  to  allow  the 
shingles  to  move  the  string  out  of  line. 
Leave  about  1/16'^  between  line  and  shin- 
gles to  prevent  this. 

Measure  up  from  the  lower  edge  of  shin- 
gles 414''  or  5'\  according  to  pitch  of  roof, 
for  second  row,  and  strike  a  chalk  line  for 
3  rows.  Shingle  and  continue  this  method 
until  roof  is  covered  (fig.  45),  putting  two 
nails  %"  from  the  edge  in  a  shingle.  You 
may  use  a  straight  edge  to  lay  the  shingles 
by,  moving  it  up  for  each  row.  An  expert 
shingler  usually  uses  a  gauge  on  his  shingle 
hatchet,  and  lines  with  chalk  and  line  every 
sixth  row  instead  of  using  the  straight  edge 
or   former   method.       Let   shingles   project 

60 


over  the   gable  facier  or  mould  13/16''  of 
an  inch. 

To  cut  a  valley  shingle  to  fit  the  valley 
or  hip,  take  the  hypotenuse  of  the  base  and 
rise  of  the  common  rafter  with  the  base, 
12",  and  mark  on  the  length  of  the  hy- 
potenuse. (Pig.  35.)  This  rule  is  reliable 
for  hip  or  valley  shingles.  The  end  of  the 
shingle  cut  from  the  valley  will  make  a  hip 
shingle.  Do  not  have  two  cracks  directly 
over  each  other.  Keep  them  ll^''  apart  for 
a  good  roof. 

Chalk  line  the  valleys  to  lay  the  shingles 
in  line,  leaving  2i/^''  valley  between  the 
shingles.  It  is  advisable  to  have  the  top 
of  valley  %''  narrower  than  the  bottom. 
The  valley  tin  14''  wide,  laps  over  and 
down. 

To  estimate  the  number  of  shingles  for 
a  roof,  take  the  length  of  rafters  and  the 
projection  of  the  gable  and  find  the  number 
of  square  feet  in  the  roof.  For  4%"  to  the 
weather  it  will  take  9  shingles  to  the  square 
foot;  then  9  times  the  number  of  square 
feet  is  the  number  of  shingles  required,  and 
other  widths  in  proportion. 

61 


DOOR  AND  WINDOW  FRAMES 

Most  frames  are  made  at  the  planing 
mills,  but  when  it  is  more  convenient  to 
build  them,  the  following  suggestions  will 
be  helpful.  For  a  door  or  window,  rabbet 
across  the  side  jambs  %''  for  the  head  jamb 
and  sill.  Cut  the  head  jamb  and  sill  %" 
longer  than  the  width  of  sash  or  door,  for 
the  gain  or  rabbet  in  the  jambs.     (Fig.  46.) 


<1  A-  S  1    N  G 


I 

j«r-5TOf» 


-JAMB.- 


5  I    LL 


CASINO  — 


REBME— f^ 


VIMDOV    Fli/kME 


l^'BCJ 


JAMB 

FIG.  47 


FIG.  46 

The  jamb   must  be   made   wide   enough   to 
extend  %''  inside  of  the  studding  for  the 


thickness  of  the  lath  and  plaster.  Let  2^' 
horns  on  the  outside  of  sill  to  set  the  easing 
on,  and  for  any  projection  desired.  Casing 
to  be  soft  wood.  Add  %"  more  to  the 
length  of  the  door  frame  than  the  height 
of  the  door.  The  window  jamb  should  be 
plowed  y^!'  or  %''  for  the  parting  stop, 
2%"  from  the  outside  of  the  jamb  for 
13/8^'  windows,  and  13/16''  stop.  Set  the 
pulley  down  from  the  top  3I/2".  Cut  a 
pocket  4''  from  the  bottom  to  a  height  of 
10''  to  12"  to  admit  the  weights. 

Cut  the  pocket  on  a  60  degree  angle  and 
fasten  with  two  screws  at  the  bottom  and 
one  at  the  top.     (See  fig.  46.) 

TO  SET  DOOR  AND  WINDOW  FRAMES 

Cut  a  pole  1/^"  longer  than  the  height  of 
the  door,  adding  the  thickness  of  the  fin- 
ished floor.  Set  the  pole  under  the  head 
jamb  of  the  window  for  height  of  frame. 
Level  and  plumb  the  frame  at  this  height 
and  fasten  in  place. 

PORCH 

Line  and  nail  a  2x4  on  the  joists  or 
sheething  the  thickness  of  the  porch  floor- 
ing lower  than  the  door  sill,  the  length  of 

63 


the  porch,  less  the  thickness  of  the  headers. 
Cut  the  headers  the  length  of  the  width  of 
the  porch,  nail  and  square  to  the  2x4  nailed 
on  the  wall  joists.  Measure  the  length  of 
the  joists  between  the  headers,  next  to  the 
wall,  and  place  them  the  desired  distance 
apart.  (16  to  24''.)  Make  the  frame  3" 
shorter  than  the  floor  boards.  Slope  the 
frame  to  the  front  about  1''  to  every  6'  for 
drain.  Lay  the  floor  two  inches  over  the 
side  of  the  frame.  Line  and  cut  the  front 
the  same  as  the  sides  to  extend  over  the 
frame  for  facier  board  and  cove.  Locate 
the  posts,  deduct  the  depth  of  the  beam 
from  the  height  of  the  ceiling  for  the 
length  of  the  posts,  adding  the  drop  of  the 
porch  floor. 

Build  the  beam  for  the  support  of  the 
porch  roof  that  rests  on  top  of  the  posts 
of  2''  plank  or  boards.  Then  place  the 
joists  for  the  ceiling  2'  or  more  apart  the 
same  way  the  floor  joists  run.     (Fig.  48.) 

The  ceiling  usually  runs  the  same  as  the 
floor.  Cut  the  rafters  the  desired  pitch 
and  style  of  roof,  allowing  for  facier. 
Sheath  and  shingle  same  as  main  roof.  Lo- 
cate the  height  of  the  top  rail;    keep  the 

64 


bottom  rail  2i/^''  from  the  floor  and  the 
side  rails  level,  not  following  the  slope  of 
floor.  Take  the  space  between  the  rails,  for 
the  length  of  spindle,  and  the  distance  be- 
tween posts  for  the  length  of  rail,  making 
allowance  for  fitting.  Ceil  the  ceiling  of 
the  porch  and  put  a  cove  in  the  angles  of 
the  ceiling  and  under  the  outer  edge  of  the 
floor,  a  crown  mould  around  the  facier,  and 
a  bed  mould  in  the  angle  of  plancier  and 
frieze. 


.Door  sill 


2^« 


FI0?48 
LATHING 

The  lath  should  be  spaced  5/16'^  apart 
to  admit  the  plaster  for  a  good  clinch, 
breaking  joints  every  ninth  lath.  Put 
grounds  around  the  inside  door  openings 
%''  thick  by  V  wide.  Plumb  and  straight 
edge  them  and  gauge  them  the  same  width 


65 


in  all  door  openings,  or,  when  the  lathing 
is  done,  nail  a  lath  around  the  face  of  door 
openings,  to  gauge  the  thickness  of  plaster. 
Plumb,  straighten,  and  gauge  the  same 
thickness  as  the  width  of  the  former 
grounds,  %''  for  lath  and  plaster. 

FINISH  FLOORS 

Lin'e  and  nail  the  first  board  perfectly 
straight.  Lay  and  nail  all  other  flooring 
tight.  Where  the  flooring  board  does  not 
extend  the  length  of  the  room,  have  at  least 
two  boards,  between  each  joint  on  the  same 
joist.  Blind  nail  pine  flooring  with  7d 
nails.  For  hard  floor,  use  6d  casing  nails, 
and  for  %''  flooring  use  4d  casing  or  finish 
nails.  To  finish  pine  floors,  plane  the  un- 
even edges,  then  scrape  and  sand.  Cut  all 
hard  wood  floors  to  an  even  surface  with 
a  cabinet  or  floor  scraper,  sandpaper  length- 
wise of  the  floor  to  a  smooth  finish  with 
No.  1  and  No.  0  sandpaper. 

INSIDE  FINISH 

The  inside  finish  consists  of  door  jambs, 
casings,  head  trimmers,  base,  window  stool, 
aprons,   stops,  picture  mould,   closet  strips, 

66 


doors,  windows,  etc.  Scrape  and  sand  out 
all  defects  and  plane  marks  before  putting 
finish  in  place.  Straighten  and  gauge  the 
door  jambs  the  thickness  of  the  partition  or 
walls.  Cut  a  gain  %''  for  the  head  jamb 
and  cut  the  head  jamb  %'^  longer  than  the 
width  of  the  door  for  the  gains.  Measure 
down  from  the  head  jamb  y^'^  more  than 
the  length  of  door.  (Example — for  a  6'  6'' 
door,  make  the  jamb  6'  6%''.)  Square  the 
jamb  at  this  length  and  when  put  in  place, 
keep  it  up  the  thickness  of  the  finish  floor. 
Fit  the  window  stools  between  the  jambs, 
leave  1/16''  between  stool  and  sash.  Let 
the  inside  projection  of  stool  extend  over 
the  outer  edge  of  the  casing  the  distance 
between  the  front  edge  of  the  stool  to  the 
face  of  casing.  Case  the  double  hung  win- 
dows flush  with  the  jambs.  Case  doors  or 
easement  windows  5/16"  back  from  the 
edge  of  the  jamb,  around  the  opening. 
Dotted  lines  around  the  door  (fig.  49)  rep- 
resent casing. 

Cut  the  apron  the  length  of  the  outer 
line  of  casing.  Cope  or  mitre  the  ends  and 
fit  it  under  the  stool  in  line  with  the  casing. 

Cut  the  approximate  length  of  the  base 


<--1 


PICTURE  MOULD  I 


3TOP— »■ 


«j*  THIS  KEIom 

yf  FOR   A 

_l  DOIJBIE-KOM 

^  WINDOW 


fPIMISH    TLOOR 


FIG.  49 

boards  for  each  room.  When  finished  in 
the  natural  or  stained,  select  the  grain  to 
match  in  each  room.  With  spacing  rods 
get  the  length  of  base  board  needed  for 
each  wall.  Cope  the  corner  and  fit  to  cas- 
ing or  base  blocks.  Cut  the  door  and  win- 
dow heads  flush  with  the  outside  edge  of 
the  casing.  When  there  is  a  fillet  used,  let 
the  fillet  extend  over  the  outer  edge  of  cas- 
ing %'\  To  get  the  length  of  picture 
mould,  use  spacing  rods,  then  cope  the  cor- 
ners and  place  them  %^^  from  the  ceiling, 
or  it  may  be  placed  in  line  with  the  top  of 
window    and    door    heads.     The    regulation 


68 


height  for  closet  strips  is  5i/^^  For  door 
stops,  cut  the  head  stop  between  the  jamb 
and  cope  the  side  stops  to  the  head  stop 
and  cut  the  bottom  square  to  fit  the  floor. 
For  window  stops,  use  same  method  as  for 
door  stops,  allowing  1/16''  between  stop 
and  sash. 

Straighten  and  square  the  back  edge  of 
the  door  to  be  hinged,  set  it  in  the  open- 
ing flush  with  the  jamb  on  the  hinged  side. 
Mark  the  front  and  top  flush  with  the 
jamb,  then  rip  and  plane  to  the  line,  bev- 
eled back  1/16''.  When  properly  fitted, 
will  have  nearly  1/16"  space  on  top  and 
sides  of  the  door.  Set  the  door  in  place 
and  mark  with  a  knife  for  the  hinges  7" 
from  the  top  for  the  upper  edge  of  the  top 
hinge  and  11"  from  the  floor  for  the  bottom 
end  of  lower  hinge.  If  there  is  a  third 
hinge  used,  divide  the  space  between  the 
top  and  bottom  hinges.  It  is  practical  to 
make  a  pole  with  those  markings  to  have 
all  door  hinges  set  the  same. 

For  sash  and  casement  windows,  fit  the 
hinged  side  and  bottom,  then  mark  the 
front  and  top  to  jambs.  For  double-hung 
windows,   fit.  the    top    sash    and  put  it  in 

69 


place,  then  plane  off  the  sides  of  the  bottom 
sash  the  proper  width  and  set  in  place.  Set 
a  compass  the  width  the  top  rail  of  the 
bottom  sash  extends  above  the  rail  of  the 
top  sash,  and  mark  with  the  compass  the 
bottom  rail  of  the  lower  sash  to  fit  the  sill. 
Set  a  bevel  square  the  angle  of  the  sill, 
mark  across,  and  rip  on  those  lines. 

CASES  AND  CUPBOARDS 

Lay  the  outline  of  cupboard  or  case  on 
the  wall  by  marking  height  and  where 
shelves  are  desired.  These  markings  or 
heights  can  be  made  on  a  pole  or  gauge  to 
get  height  where  it  is  inconvenient  to  mark 
on  the  wall.  Lay  out  the  width  and  depth 
of  cupboard  on  the  floor.  Space  the  width 
of  doors,  casings,  drawers,  crossbars,  head, 
base,  etc.  Use  casing  the  thickness  of  the 
cupboard  doors.  Cupboards  should  extend 
from  the  floor  to  the  ceiling,  making  a 
short  door  at  the  top  for  a  storage  shelf. 
Dotted  lines   (fig.  50)   represent  shelves. 

Make  the  draw  fronts  of  13/16''  boards, 
rabbet  the  end  %"  deep  and  the  width  of 
the  sides  of  the  draw,  allowing  for  the  front 
to   lap   over  the   opening   %""to-  close   the 

70 


crack,  then  plow  the  sides  and  front  %'' 
above  the  bottom,  %''  wide  for  the  draw 
bottom.     (Fig.  50.) 


TctikiMa 

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TROMT    51  Dt 

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bKCK 

— 



0 
a 

5tCTION 

■"   ""   ' 

^^ 

HOOR 

ORAWtR" 

1                   1 

Dl    LM 



- 

DETAIL 

OF 
DRAWERS 

FIG.  50 

STAIRS 

Stair  framing  is  figured  by  run  and  rise 
and  is  not  computed  by  base  feet,  as  in 
nearly  all  construction.  The  run  of  the 
step  is  the  horizontal  or  tread  line  and  the 
rise  is  the  perpendicular  or  rise  line.  We 
must  determine  the  number  of  treads  and 
rises  for  the  span  of  the  stair.  Cut  a  pole 
the  length  from  the  top  of  the  finish  floor 
below  to  the  top  of  the  finish  floor  above. 
With  a  compass  space  the  desired  number 
of  rises  in  the  stair.     There  is  one  less  run 


71 


than   rise   in  laying   out  the   stair.     Plumb 
from  the  header  above  to  the  floor  below. 


Allow  11/4''  for  finish,  and  measure  back  the 
length  of  the  run  of  one  tread  as  many 
times  as  there  are  number  of  runs  in  the 
stair.     (Fig.  51.) 

Where  there  is  a  certain  amount  of  space 
for  the  stair,  divide  the  same  with  the  com- 
pass for  the  number  of  runs  required,  one 
less  than  the  number  of  risers. 

The  tread  is  1^4 ''  wider  than  the  run  for 
nosing.  The  finish  rise  is  the  same  width 
of  the  rise  of  the  stringer.     (Fig.  52.)     Ex- 


sub    FLOOR 


FIG.  52 


ample:  The  height  from  finish  floor  below 
the  top  of  finish  floor  above  is  9'  4'',  or  112". 
Keep  as  close  to  7''  rise  as  possible,  where 
there  is  room  for  the  run.  There  are  16 
rises,  112^16=7''  rise. 

73 


Where  there  is  space,  make  the  run  10''' 
for  a  11%,''  tread.  To  locate  the  header  of 
opening,  find  the  number  of  runs  and  rises 
in  the  stair  as  described,  and  locate  the  first 
rise.  The  plumb  line  between  the  rear 
header  and  stair  tread  should  be  6'  8''  to  7'. 
The.  ceiling  is  8'  6'',  the  third  riser  is  21^' 
high,  the  distance  between  the  third  rise 
and  ceiling  is  6'  9''.  Plumb  up  from  the 
third  rise  for  the  header  of  the  opening. 
(See  fig.  51.)  Lay  the  square  at  10''  run 
and  7"  rise  on  the  stringer  to  be  cut  out, 
as  many  times  as  there  are  runs  and  rises 
in  the  stair.  Cut  off  the  bottom  of  the 
first  rise  the  thickness  of  the  finished  tread. 
Nail  this  stair  horse  on  the  finish  stringer 
3"  from  the  top  edge  to  the  point  of  rise 
and  run  to  support  the  rise  and  tread.  Cut 
out  of  finish  stringer  at  the  top  that  rests 
on  the  floor,  the  thickness  of  the  tread  and 
cut  the  top  and  bottom  of  the  finish  stringer 
to  meet  the  base  with  mitred  joint.  (Fig. 
51.)  Take  the  width  of  opening  and  deduct 
the  thickness  of  stringers  for  the  length  of 
the  tread,  straighten  and  square  a  tread  for 
a  pattern  to  mark  all  other  treads  and  rises, 
using  a  knife  point  to  do  all  marking. 

74 


Nail  the  risers  and  treads  in  firmly.  If 
the  one  side  is  exposed,  allow  for  an  out- 
side finish  string.  There  are  different 
methods  to  build  stairs.  The  treads  and 
risers  may  be  housed  in  the  finished  stringer 
and  wedged  and  glued.  All  stairs  are  fig- 
ured on  the  method  described,  whether  two 
or  more  risers  and  runs.  Any  one  wishing 
to  make  a  specialty  of  stairs  work  can  ob- 
tain books  especially  for  stairs. 

GARAGE 

Locate,  stake  and  establish  the  grade. 
Then  level,  line  and  square  as  described  in 
the  fore  part  of  the  book.  (See  index  for 
same.)  Set  the  forms  for  the  concrete 
wall,  setting  bolts  in  the  concrete  and  let 
extend  2^2 ''  above  the  wall  to  bolt  sills  in 
place. 

The  wall  should  be  2''  or  more  above  the 
finished  floor.  Leave  an  opening  in  the  ce- 
ment floor  2^x5',  directly  under  the  engine 
and  transmission,  fill  the  pit  with  sand  to 
absorb  all  grease  that  may  drop.  When  it 
becomes  too  oily  shovel  out  and  replace 
with  clean  sand,  and  there  will  be  no  pans 
and  oily  floors  to  clean. 


Lay  the  sills  and  space  them  for  the 
studding.  Cut  plates  the  dimension  of  the 
building  over  the  sills  and  space  the  same 
as  sills.  Lay  out  the  door  and  window 
openings.  Cut  the  studs  8',  less  the  thick- 
ness of  the  sill  and  the  plate.  Nail  the 
studs  on  the  plate,  raise  and  nail  to  the 
sill. 

Brace  and  plumb  the  corners,  double  the 
plates,  and  tie  the  building  the  way  the 
rafters  span.  Put  braces  above  on  the 
plate  diagonally  near  the  corners,  to  keep 
the  front  end  plumb.  Double  2x6  and  set 
edgewise  across  the  front  for  ties  and  head- 
ers over  the  doors.  Notch  out  to  lower  the 
top  even  with  plate.  Cut  the  rafters  for 
the  desired  pitch.  (See  rules  on  rafters.) 
Board  the  sides  and  leave  openings  for  door 
and  windows.  Sheath  and  sihingle  as  de- 
scribed. (See  rule  for  shingling.)  Put  on 
outside  finish. 

Place  the  door  cleats  across  the  opening 
for  front  doors.  Notch  the  side  to  set  the 
cleat  back  the  thickness  of  door  boards,  so 
the  doors  will  set  flush  with  the  casing. 
The  casing  to  be  set  back  on  the  siding  i^" 
for  stop.     Cut  the  boards  the  proper  length 

76 


and  build  the   doors   in  place.     Brace   and 
hinge  before   opening  them. 

The  dotted  lines   (fig.  53)  represents  ties 
and  braces  on  the  top  plate. 


^^^ 

oil. 

PIT 

// 

l-.-.-lV- 

/ 

1       ^^ 

'\ 

1 

^^^k 

7 

/  /  ^    _  J"  \_  _  _  _ 

J     /> 

^  ^\ 

FIO-  53 

CORN  CRIB 

The  modern  corn  crib  should  be  planned 
and  constructed  with  the  conveniences  to 
conserve  labor.  Handling  corn  in  ear  or 
shelled  will  be  no  more  the  burden  of  the 
farm  if  properly  planned. 


77 


In  the  construction  of  this  building  you 
can  locate,  stake,  find  grade,  level  and 
square  the  building  as  described  and  illus- 
trated in  this  book  and  with  the  rules  for 
the  use  of  the  square,  you  can  make  any 
cut.  (See  rules  covering  same.)  The  dimen- 
sions of  the  crib  is  28'x40'.  The  walls  are  8" 
thick  and  12^'  above  the  driveway  floor.  Con- 
cave the  top  of  the  wall  to  anchor  the  floor 
slab.  The  footings  and  wall  to  extend  in  the 
ground  18'^,  and  at  both  ends  of  the  drive- 
way put  footings  18'^  deep  to  prevent  rats 
from  burrowing  under  the  floors.  (See  fig. 
54.)  The  floor  slab  for  the  cribs  are  6" 
thick,  crowned  in  the  center  2"  and  extend 
over  the  wall  V^  for  drip.  Place  iron  sock- 
ets in  the  concrete  slab,  when  poured,  2' 
on  center  lined  and  leveled  for  the  support 
of  the  studdings.  The  cement  floor  for  the 
driveway  is  5''  thick  and  should  be  mixed. 
Five  shovels  of  sand  to  1  shovel  of  cement  for 
solid  floor.  The  dimension  lumber  for 
building,  outside  studs,  2''x6''xl4'.  Inside 
studs  2''x8'^xl4',  double  plate,  with  same  di- 
mension; 2''x8''  ties  under  the  plates  every 
4'.  Nailed  to  the  studs  and  plates.  Cross 
joists  for  bin  2^^x8"  every  2\  ties  under  bin 

78 


2^'x8'''  every  2'.  Ties  and  cross  ties  in  crib 
V^xS^\  The  studs  above  the  inside  plates 
2^'x6'^  Perline  plates  2''x6''.  Rafters  2''x6'^ 
16'  bin  at  both  ends,  leaving  8'  opening  above 
between  the  bins  in  center  for  elevator. 
Board  the  bottom  and  side  of  the  bin  with 
matched  flooring.  Sheet  and  shingle  (see 
rule  for  same).  Use  bats  and  drop  siding 
for  the  outside  wall.  Matched  flooring  for 
doors.  Board  off  a  space  6'  wide  the  width 
of  crib  and  7'  high  for  engine  room.     Put 


slides  along  the  length  of  the  crib  to  let  the 
corn  out  for  shelling.  Set  sheller  by  the 
elevator,  to  elevate  the  corn  to  the  bins 
from  the  sheller.  Begin  in  the  fore  part 
of  this  book  and  demonstrate  every  rule 
and  diagram.  This  will  enable  you  to  make 
any  cut  required  for  this  building.  (Fig. 
54.) 

HEN  HOUSE 

Poultry  raising  is  one  of  the  commercial 
pursuits  of  the  day.  The  care  and  shelter 
of  the  hen  is  absolutely  necessary. 

The  hen  house  herein  described  is  12'xl6'. 


r^-l 


ROOST     ROOM 


la*    <SOTT  E  R 


==^ 


WALL  «."  ABOVt    (FLOOR. 


.        1^5T  _      0 


L.-j,; 


SCRATCH      PEK 

-4"  WALL 


I 


,«,..o'— - 

FIG.  55 

80 


The  foundation  to  extend  12''  above  the 
ground  and  12''  below  the  sufface,  to  pre- 
vent vermin  burrowing  under  the  floor. 
Concrete  the  floor  several  inches  above  the 
surrounding  grounds,  for  a  dry  floor.  Run 
a  4"  wall  6"  high  8'xl2'  for  the  scratch 
room.  The  nest  room  4'xl2'.  The  roost 
room  floor  4'xl2'  and  has  a  gutter  10"  wide 
at  the  bottom  of  the  drain.  (See  floor  plan 
fig.  55.)  The  roosts  extend  over  part  of 
the  scratch  pen  and  conserves  floor  space, 
and  is  more  easily  kept  warm  in  cold  cli- 
mates. Put  2"  to  4"  of  sand  or  dirt  on  the 
cement  floor  in  the  scratch  room.  Hens 
should   not    sit    on    concrete    when    housed. 


The  dirt  may  be  changed  as  often  as  neces- 
sary to  keep  sanitary.     (See  fig.  56.) 

The  partition  between  nest  room  and 
other  rooms  to  be  boarded  tight.  Cut  doors 
in  as  shown.  The  partition  between  scratch 
room  and  roost  room  to  be  boarded  tight 
except  a  3x10'  opening  1'  above  the  roosts. 
This  opening  to  be  covered  with  mesh  wire 
and  have  a  canvass  roll  to  close  and  open. 
The  sloped  partition  under  the  roosts  to 
gutter  to  be  boarded  upright  with  matched 
floor.  The  roost  frame  made  of  V^x4:''  with 
cross-bars  every  4'.  Hinges  on  back,  roost 
strips  l"x2".  The  nests  14''  wide  and  12" 
deep.  Hinge  the  bottom  of  the  nest  box  to 
drop  and  the  top  to  raise  to  clean  out  and 
scrub. 


FIQ.  57 

82 


Ill  adding  to  or  taking  from  this  plan, 
you  can  use  the  same  method  on  different 
plans.  The  front  or  south  has  windows  for 
the  scratch  pen,  to  admit  the  sun,  and 
canvass  above  the  windows  for  air.  There 
are  two  windows  on  the  north  for  ventila- 
tion in  summer.     (Fig.  57.) 

HOG  HOUSE 

A  brief  description  and  cut  of  a  hog 
house  in  this  booklet  may  advance  some 
ideas  profitable  to  the  farmer  as  well  as 
the  mechanic.  The  plan  in  the  illustration 
is  24x40'  and  should  be  set  east  and  west. 
The  depth  of  stalls  is  10'  and  the  feed  way 
4'.     (Fig.  58.)     The  height  of  outside  walls 


f 

-~BX 

P 

^             ^ 

B 

5  LOP  ROOM 

0 

1 

THOUGH 

11 

a 

'? 

ea 

POSTS    Ak^ 

1 

, n 

T     +- 

RT 

R 

'  FEED 
,     Bin 

1      1 

TROUGH ; 

^ 

,1 

0 

BIK      ' 

1 

H 

a 1 

n             pt 

E 

FIG.  58 

83 


is  6'  to  rafters.  The  north  roof  laps  over 
the  south  roof  far  enough  to  admit  a  row 
of  windows  that  will  let  the  sunlight  on 
the  north  floor.  The  troughs  may  be  made 
of  concrete.  Arrange  the  partitions  so 
they  may  be  removed  and  hung  on  pins  on 
the  side.     (Fig.  59.) 


FIG. 59 


Excavate  for  the  wall  18^'  below  the  sur- 
face and  make  the  wall  high  enough  above 
the  surrounding  grounds  to  keep  a  dry 
floor.  Fill  the  walk  with  moist  earth  and 
tamp  thoroughly.  Concrete  floor  to  be  4'^ 
thick  and  extend  V^  over  the  wall.  The 
center  along  feedway  to  be  2''  higher  than 
the  outside  for  drain.  Place  bolts  in  con- 
crete on  both  sides  of  all  openings  not  more 

84 


than  6^  apart  to  bolt  sills  in  place.  The 
wall  between  the  bin  and  stall  to  be  2^'  to 
4''  higher  than  the  floor,  to  keep  bin  dry. 

Place  the  sills  and  space  for  the  stud- 
ding. Cut  a  top  plate  the  entire  length 
and  space  the  same  as  the  sill.  Cut  the 
studs  the  proper  lengths  and  nail  to  tEe 
plate.  Raise  and  nail  the  bottoms  on  the 
sill.  Set  the  inside  posts  4''x4'',  every  6'  on 
center,  and  4'  apart  in  the  clear  for  the 
feed  way.  The  plates  for  the  4''x4^'  posts  to 
be  2''x6'^  One  nailed  on  the  outside  of  the 
4x4  and  the  top  plate  to  lap  over  the  side 
plate.  There  are  9^  base  feet  from  the 
outside  plate  to  the  inside  plate;  6'^  rise 
to  one  base  foot  would  make  the  inside 
plate  4'  9^'  higher  than  the  outside  plate. 
See  common  rafters  for  length  and  cut,  or 
the  base  12^'  and  rise  6'';  laid  9i/^  succes- 
sive times  for  the  length. 

TO  ASSEMBLE  A  ROOF 

We  will  use  the  same  figure  for  this  il- 
lustration that  it  may  be  easily  understood, 
but  the  rules  given  in  this  roof  have  all  the 
cuts  for  any  regular  roof.  Though  there 
may  be  a  number  of  projections  there  will 

85 


be  no  new  cuts,  but  the  method  given  will 
work  on  any  rise  or  pitch. 

In  drawing  an  outline  of  a  roof,  take  i/4^' 
scale  to  represent  one  foot.  The  diagram 
is  20'x24^  The  length  of  the  ridge  is  the 
difference  between  the  width  and  length  of 
the  building,  4'.  Measure  10'  from  the 
ends  to  ridge  and  10'  from  the  sides  to 
ridge.  This  locates  the  ridge.  Draw  a  line 
4'  for  the  ridge  and  a  line  for  the  hip  raft- 
ers from  the  corners  to  the  ridge.  This 
outlines  a  hip  roof.     (Fig.   60.) 


•* 

_  _ 

-  — 



-    "i-A- 

FT. 

— 



— 

-  - 

1 

N 

k 

RIOO 

5 

/ 

/ 

A 

1 

\ 

1 

\ 

/ 

c 

1 
1 

,                 c    lo' 

\ 

/          ,. 

i  .     / 

/ 

\ 

\ 

1 

1 
1 

1     ^ 

f 

\ 

' 

1^ 

J 

/ 

/ 

a 

\ 

> 

' 

2 

1 

r     J 

/ 

/ 

/ 

o 

\ 

1 

\ 

i 

/ 

—  GA.BI.C     R   —    - 

N 

K-4 

rx.  -. 

I-- 

~     - 

5^ 

I« 

rr.  - 

e 

-- 

-  H 

k- 

-  ^ 

_i. 


FIG.  60 

The  gable  is  16',  located  in  the  center  of 
86 


one  side  of  the  building.  The  length  of 
the  ridge  is  %  the  width  of  the  gable  or 
8'  to  meet  the  main  roof.  The  difference 
in  the  height  of  the  gable  ridge  and  the 
ridge  of  the  hip  roof  is  l^  the  difference 
between  the  width  of  the  gable,  16',  and 
the  width  of  the  main  building,  20',  or  2'. 
The  valley  rafter  extends  from  the  mark 
on  the  plate  for  the  width  of  the  gable,  to 
the  8'  mark  on  the  ridge.  (Fig.  60.)  Spac- 
ing the  rafters  2'  on  center.  There  are  five 
common  rafters  in  the  main  roof.  They 
extend  from  the  plate  to  the  ridge.  There 
are  28  jack  rafters,  that  extend  from  the 
plate  to  the  hip  rafter.  There  are  4  cripple 
rafters  that  extend  from  the  valley  rafter 
to  the  hip  rafter  and  1  cripple  rafter  that 
extends  from  the  gable  ridge  to  the  ridge 
of  the  hip  roof.  The  two  gable  rafters  that 
extend  from  the  plate  to  the  ridge  are  com- 
mon rafters.  Cut  off  lower  ends  of  gable 
rafters  14  thickness  of  valley  rafter  on 
same  bevel  as  cripple  rafters.  There  are 
six  cripple  rafters  in  the  gable  that  extend 
from  the  valley  to  the  ridge.  (See  fig.  13.) 
Begin  at  the  corners  and  space  the  raft- 
ers 2'  on  center.     Measure  from  the  corner 

87 


23"  and  25'^  for  the  space  of  the  first  rafter 
and  continue  to  space  2'  from  these  marks. 
Follow  this  method  around  the  building 
except  the  16'  span  of  the  gable.  Space 
the  ridge  of  the  gable  2'  center,  the  same 
as  the  plate.  Let  the  gable  ridge  extend 
1%''  longer  than  the  8'  mark  to  meet  the 
valley  rafter  cut.  Space  the  ridge  of  the 
main  roof  to  correspond  with  the  space  on 
the  plate.  Allow  1^/4''  extension  at  both 
ends  of  the  4'  ridge  to  meet  the  hip  rafter, 
the  center  of  the  hip  rafter  to  line  with  the 
4'  mark.  Draw  the  rafters  from  plate  to 
ridge,  plate  to  hip,  valley  to  hip  and  valley 
to  ridge.     (Fig.  60.) 

All  roofs  are  laid  out  with  this  method. 
Draw  an  outline  of  the  roof  before  cutting 
the  rafters  and  check  the  rafters  on  the  plat 
as  you  cut  them  to  know  where  you  left  off 
cutting  and  where  to  begin.  It  is  practical 
to  fasten  a  pair  of  gauges  on  the  square  at 
12"  base  and  the  given  rise  to  space  and 
cut  the  rafters.  It  is  as  ^asy  to  cut  a  roof 
with  3",  5",  7"',  or  any  other  rise  as  it  is 
with  8"  in  this  roof.  Observe  the  methods. 
The  common  rafters  have  10  base  feet, 
1/2    the    width    of    the    main    roof.      (Fig. 

88 


60.)  Lay  the  square  o]i  the  rafter  at  12^' 
base  and  8''  rise.  Mark  on  the  rise  for  the 
ridge  cut,  and  make  a  check  mark  at  12'^ 
base.  Move  the  rise  of  the  square  to  this 
check  mark  and  re-check  as  before  ten  suc- 
cessive times  for  the  length  of  the  common 
rafter.  Then  mark  on  the  base  for  the 
plate  cut.     (Fig.  32.) 

Shorten  the  rafter  at  the  top  one-half  the 
thickness  of  the  ridge.  There  are  as  many 
base  feet  in  a  jack  rafter  as  there  are  num- 
ber of  feet  on  the  plate  from  the  corner  to 
the  center  of  the  rafter.  They  are  usually 
in  pairs  of  the  same  length.  Reverse  the 
cuts  on  one  to  make  a  pair  of  right  and  left 
cuts.  There  are  four  pairs  of  jack  rafters 
of  the  first  length.  They  are  2'  from  the 
corner  and  have  two  base  feet.  Lay  the 
square  on  the  rafter  at  12'^  base  and  8'^ 
rise,  two  successive  times.  For  the  length 
of  the  rafter,  mark  on  the  base  for  the  plate 
cut  and  on  the  rise  for  the  perpendicular 
cut  to  meet  the  hip  rafter.  If  a  heel  and 
extension  is  left  on  see  rule  for  same.  For 
the  angular  or  face  cut  to  meet  the  hip, 
take  the  number  of  inches  from  12^'  base 
to  8''  rise,  which  is  nearly    141/2 ''    on    the 

89 


square  instead  of  the  rise  with  12''  base. 
Lay  the  square  on  the  top  edge  of  the 
rafter  at  12''  base  and  I4I/2"  at  the  plumb 
line  and  mark  back  from  the  perpendicular 
line  on  the  14^/^".  This  method  is  true  in 
any  pitch.     (Fig.  35.) 

Take  the  pattern  and  make  four  dupli- 
cate rafters  of  the  reverse  cut.  Take  one 
of  the  four  and  make  three  duplicate  raft- 
ers with  the  opposite  cut  the  same  as  pat- 
tern and  you  have  four  pairs  of  rafters. 
There  are  four  pairs  of  the  second  jack 
rafter.  They  are  4'  from  the  corner  and 
have  4  base  feet.  Follow  directions  for 
length  and  cut  of  first  pair.  The  third 
rafter  is  6'  from  the  corner  and  has  six  base 
feet.  There  are  three  pairs  and  will  require 
the  square  laid  at  the  base  and  rise  6  suc- 
cessive times.  For  the  length,  use  the  same 
method  as  in  the  first  pair  for  length  and  cut. 

There  are  three  pairs  of  the  fourth  jack 
rafter.  They  are  8'  from  the  corner  and 
have  8  base  feet.  Follow  the  same  method 
as  former  pairs.  By  marking  back  from 
the  regular  spacing  or  perpendicular  line, 
the  center  of  the  jack  rafter  will  be  short- 
ened enough  for  the  thickness  of  the  hip. 

90 


The  cripple  rafter  that  extends  from  the 
valley  rafter  to  the  hip  rafter  has  4  base 
feet,  the  number  of  feet  on  the  plate  from 
the  corner  at  the  hip  to  the  angle  or  center 
of  the  valley.  Lay  the  square  on  the  rafter 
at  12"  base  and  8"  rise  four  successive 
times  for  the  length  of  the  cripple  rafter. 
Mark  on  the  rise  for  the  perpendicular  line 
for  top  and  bottom  to  meet  the  hip  and 
valley.  Square  across  the  rafter  at  the 
check  mark  for  the  valley  and  make  the 
plumb  line  on  the  opposite  side  from  the 
hip  line. 

The  angular  cut  is  obtained  the  same  as 
for  the  jack  rafter.  The  valley  cut  to  be 
reversed  on  opposite  side  from  the  hip,  the 
cuts  running  parallel.  (Figs.  35  and  36.) 
The  two  gable  rafters  are  common.  They 
have  eight  base  feet,  %  the  number  of  feet 
in  the  width  of  the  gable.  (Refer  to  rule 
given  for  common  rafter.)  There  are  three 
pairs  of  cripple  rafters  that  extend  from 
the  valley  to  the  gable  ridge.  Every  foot 
out  on  the  ridge  from  the  center  of  the 
valley  at  the  intersection  of  valley  and 
ridge  lengthens  the  cripple  rafter  one  base 
foot.     The  first  pair  of  cripple  rafters  are 

91 


set  out  2'  and  have  2  base  feet.  The  sec- 
ond pair  is  set  out  4'  and  has  4  base  feet. 
The  third  pair  is  set  out  6^  and  has  6  base 
feet.  (Fig.  21.)  Lay  the  square  at  12'' 
base  and  8''  rise  as  many  times  as  there  are 
base  feet  in  the  rafter  for  the  length.  Mark 
on  the  rise  for  the  ridge  cut,  and  down  on 
the  rise  for  the  perpendicular  cut  to  meet 
the  valley.  The  face  cut  to  meet  the  valley. 
See  rule  for  cripple  rafter  to  meet  the  val- 
ley rafter.  The  cripple  from  the  gable 
ridge  to  the  ridge  of  the  main  building. 
Sets  in  2'  on  the  ridge  from  the  hip  and 
has  two  base  feet.  Obtain  the  length  by 
laying  the  square  at  12''  base  and  8"  rise 
two  successive  times  and  cut  square  to  rise 
as  for  ridge  cuts.  The  base  for  the  hip  and 
valley  rafter  is  17".  (Fig.  16.)  The  hip 
rafter  has  10  base  feet,  %  the  width  of  the 
building.  Then  17"  base  and  8"  rise  laid 
on  the  rafter  10  successive  times  gives  the 
length  of  the  hip  rafter.  Mark  on  the  base 
for  the  plate  cut  and  on  the  rise  for  the 
perpendicular  cut  to  meet  the  ridge.  The 
'face  cut  to  meet  the  ridge,  take  the  num- 
ber of  inches  from  17"  base  to  8"  rise, 
which    is   nearly    18%"   with  17"  base  and 

92 


mark  on  the  18%''  for  the  angular  cuts. 
This  rule  is  good  in  any  number  of  inches 
rise.  There  are  as  many  base  feet  of  17'' 
in  the  valley  as  there  are  number  of  feet  in 
%  the  width  of  the  gable.  If  the  gable  is 
16'  there  are  8  base  feet  in  the  valley.  Lay 
the  square  at  17"  base  and  8"  rise,  eight 
successive  times  for  the  length.  Mark  on 
the  base  for  the  plate  cut  and  on  the  rise 
for  the  plumb  cut  to  meet  the  ridge.  The 
angular  cut  is  the  same  as  used  in  the  hip 
rafter. 

TRUSS  FRAMING 

Truss  framing  is  figured  with  the  base 
12"  and  any  rise  to  meet  the  objective 
point.  The  rules  given  in  rafter  framing 
will  give  any  cut  in  truss  framing,  by  rais- 
ing and  lowering  the  rise,  the  hypotenuse 
is  the  length  of  brace  in  one  base  foot. 

Truss  (fig.  61)  is  16'  long,  4'  6"  high.  The 
outside  braces  have  3%  base  feet  and  3^  6" 
rise.  There  are  as  many  inches  rise  to  one 
base  foot  as  there  are  number  of  inches  in 
the  rise  divided  by  the  number  of  base  feet. 
Thus,  3'  6"=42"-by  31/2  base  feet=12"  rise 
to   one  base  foot.     The  inside  brace  has  3 

93 


base  feet  and  2^  10''  rise  equals  34''  rise  -^ 
by  3  base  feet.  =  11  1/3"  rise  to  one  base 
foot.  The  length  of  brace  is  12"  base  and 
11  1/3"  rise  laid  on  the  timber  three  suc- 
cessive times.  Mark  on  the  base  at  top  and 
bottom,  add  the  seat  of  brace,  beyond  those 
marks  in  the  proportion  of  4"  to  12".  (See 
fig.  61.) 


FIG.  61 


There  are  1"  iron  rods  with  plates  that 
extend  from  the  top  beam  at  the  corner 
through  the  bottom  beam.  Where  the  out- 
side brace  is  seated  an  iron  clamp  or  stirrup 
laps  over  the  bottom  and  is  bolted  to  the 
beam.  The  beam  is  three  thicknesses  of 
2"xl2". 

Truss  No.  2  is  20'  span  with  12"  rise  to 
1  base  foot.  See  rule  for  common  rafters 
for  length  and  cut  of  main  or  outside  raft- 

94 


ers.  Place  a  cross  tie  from  the  plate  to  the 
opposite  rafter  1/3  the  distance  down  from 
the  point  of  rafter  to  the  plate.  Put  a 
horizontal  tie  up  1/3  the  length  of  the 
rafter  from  the  plate,  and  a  tie  from  the 
ridge  to  the  bottom  tie,  spiked  between 
cross  ties  and  at  bottom.     (See  fig.  62.) 


FIG.  62        J 


Truss  No.  3  spans  20',  3"  rise  to  one  base 
foot.  See  rule  for  common  rafters  for 
length  and  cut.  Tie  from  ridge  to  cross 
tie.     Place    a    brace    from    the    center    of 


No.  a 

FI165 


95 


through  tie  to  I/2  way  up  the  rafter,  and  a 
perpendicular  tie  from  the  center  of  the 
rafter  to  the  cross  tie. 

Trusses  No.  2  and  No.  3  are  used  mostly 
in  roof  construction. 

PRACTICAL  HINTS 

To  divide  a  board  in  2  or  more  equal 
parts,  lay  the  rule  across  at  any  number 
that  will  give  2,  3  or  more  equal  parts  and 
mark  and  line  for  same,  and  there  will  be 
no  fractional  parts  to  figure.     (Fig.  64.) 


To  cut  a  mitre  take  the  square  at  12'' 
and  12''  or  any  other  equal  number  of 
inches  on  the  square.  (To  cut  a  mitre  see 
fig.  65.) 

To  cope  a  mould  or  board  cut  an  inside 
mitre  and  cut  out  the  face  of  the  mitre  with 
a  coping  saw  and  the  cope  will  fit  the 
mould  at  right   angle,   also   set   a    compass 

96 


the  proper  width,  hold  in  the  same  angle 
as  you  mark  down,  and  cnt  to  mark.  (Pig. 
66.) 


Fid.  65 


CUT  OOTj 


fcOPEP  ^ 

F10.66-A 


Fl(j.66 


To  cope  a  board  to  an  uneven  surface,  set 
the  board  plumb  and  scribe  with  a  pencil 
compass,  from  top  to  bottom,  holdinc^  the 
compass  at  the  same  angle. 


97 


STRAIGHT  EDGE 

A  straight  edge  to  level  walls  and  build- 
ings should  be  made  of  li/g'^xS^xie'  of 
edge  grain  lumber  to  prevent  warping. 
Straighten  the  bottom  of  the  straight  edge. 
Measure  to  the  center  of  the  board  and 
from  this  mark  measure  18''  on  either  side. 
From  this  point  draw  a  line  to  the  end  41/^" 
from  the  bottom  and  up  the  taper  line  and 
gauge  the  same  width  from  the  bottom  in 
the  center  of  the  board  to  the  tapered  lines. 
Cut  a  handhold  in  the  center  ll^''  wide  by 
4''  long,  leaving  li/^''  on  the  top  edge.  Set 
a  true  level  on  the  top  edge.  Level  the 
board,  reverse  the  straight  edge  on  the  same 
bearings,  if  the  bulb  centers  the  straight 
edge  is  true,  if  not,  plane  off  the  high  point 
on  the  top  edge  until  it  reverses  the  same. 
The  plumb  straight  edge  should  be  4%" 
wide  and  the  length  of  the  height  of  upper 
plate.  Put  a  %  block  on  each  end  to  keep 
the  board  clear  from  any  timber  that  may 
be  bowed.  Make  perfectly  straight,  and 
see  the  ends  measure  the  same  width. 

The  straight  edge  to  set  the  jambs,  line 
cabinet  work,  etc.,  straighten  and  gauge  the 
same    width    the    entire    length.     That    in 

98 


straightening  a  jamb,  it  can  be  plumbed  at 
the  same  time.  To  test  a  straight  edge,  lay- 
it  on  the  floor,  draw  a  line  reverse  the 
board  end  to  end,  draw  another  line.  If 
the  lines  are  parallel,  the  edge  is  straight, 
if  not,  plain  the  defects  until  it  reverses  the 
same.     (Fig.  68.) 


16  ?T     LtVtL    BOARD 
PLUMB     BOARD 

L  t 

5TRAICHT       EDGE 

FIG. 68 

TEST  A  SQUARE 

Place  and  fasten  a  straight  edge  on  a 
smooth  wall  or  surface,  set  the  square  on 
the  straight  edge  and  draw  a  line  the  length 
of  the  square  on  the  wall.  Reverse  the 
square  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  line  and 
draw  another  line.  If  the  lines  run  paral- 
lel, the  square  is  true,  if  the  lines  divide,  it 
is  not  true.  Draw  a  line  centered  of  the 
divided  lines,  and  file  the  edge  of  the  square 
until  it  reverses  the  same.     (Fig.  69.) 

99 


I.,  i.  II  III  II II II 1 1  III  It  n 1 

FIG.  69 

TEST  A  LEVEL 

Drive  a  nail  in  a  smooth  even  wall,  to  set 
one  end  on.  Adjust  the  other  end  until  the 
bulb  is  centered  on  the  glass,  and  draw  a 
line  the  length  of  the  level.  Eeverse  the 
opposite  end  of  the  level  on  the  nail,  center 
the  bulb  and  draw  another  line.  If  the 
lines  are  parallel,  the  level  is  true ;  if  they 
divide,  it  is  not  true.  Take  V2  tlie  distance 
of  the  divided  lines  and  draw  a  line  from 
this  point  to  the  intersection  of  the  lines 
for  the  level  line,  and  adjust  the  level  to 
the  center  line,  and  the  level  will  be  true. 
(Fig.  70.) 


KOT       LEVEL 

FIG.  70 

100 


2nd.  Set4t  oii  an  eveii'  surface  and  ad- 
just the  level  until  the  bulb  centers,  re- 
verse the  level  end  to  end,  if  the  bulb  cen- 
ters, the  level  is  true;  if  not,  adjust  the 
level  until  the  bulb  will  come  to  the  same 
place  in  reversing  the  level.     (Fig.  70.) 


PLUMb 
LIHE-H 


PLUMB        HOT  PLUM& 
FIG.  71 

101 


Place  the  plumb  on  a  smooth  wall,  hold 
the  plumb  to  center  the  bulb  and  draw  a 
line  the  length  of  the  plumb  stock,  reverse 
the  plumb  to  the  opposite  side  of  the  line 
and  draw  a  line  the  length  of  the  plumb, 
if  the  lines  are  parallel,  the  plumb  is  true; 
if  the  lines  divide  at  one  end,  it  is  not  true. 
Make  -a  mark  i/^  the  distance  between  the 
divided  lines  and  draw  a  line  from  this 
mark  to  the  intersection  of  the  two  lines, 
then  adjust  the  plumb  to  the  center,  or 
plumb  line.     (Fig.  71.) 

WORK  BENCH 

A  work  bench  8'  or  10'  long,  2'  in  width 
and  3'  high,  or  height  of  thigh  joint,  makes 
a  convenient  bench  to  move  to  any  room  in 
finishing,  and  when  a  longer  length  is 
needed,  hook  on  an  extension.  It  should  be 
equipped  with  a  bench  screw,  and  clamp, 
also  with  a  bench  stop  on  the  top,  that  can 
be  lowered  and  raised  for  any  thickness  of 
board. 

The  dimension  of  lumber  for  the  bench, 
4  pieces  of  2''x4''x3'  for  the  legs,  4  pieces 
of  2"x4''x2'  for  top  supports.     Nailed  be- 

102 


tweeu  the  side  boards.  One  piece  3x4  hard 
wood  for  clamp.  Two  pieces  I''xl2''xl0' 
for  side  boards.  Two  pieces  Ii4''xl2''xl0' 
for  top.  Four  pieces  I^^x4''x3'  for  braces. 
Straighten  the  top  edge  of  side  boards  and 
outer  edge  of  top  to  form  a  straight  corner- 
to  work  from.     (Fig.  72.) 


WORK.   5tHCH 
FIG.  72 

SAW  TRESTLE 

The  height  of  trestle  for  the  average  man 
is  nearly  2^  The  top  should  be  made  of 
2''x6^'x4^  the  legs  of  IVs'^xd''  boards.  The 
bottom  of  the  legs  may  be  tapered  V^  nar- 
rower than  the  top.     Set  the  legs  in  from 


103 


the  end  4'^  Notch  in  the  side'  for  the  leg 
at  an  angle  so  the  bottom  of  the  legs  will 
be  spread  16''  and  out  in  line  of  the  end 
of  the  top  to  brace,  endwise.  Nail  a  cross 
tie  on  the  legs  under  the  top  of  trestle.  Set 
the  trestle  on  a  level  floor,  and  compass  and 
saw  the  bottom  of  the  legs  parallel  to  the 
floor.     (Fig.  73.) 


5AW  TRt^TLL 

FIO.  73 

SAWS 

The  length  of  saw  and  gauge  of  tooth  for 
practical  purposes: 

104 


The  Rip  Saw,  28''  blade,  5  points  to  V. 

The  Cutoff  Saw,  26''  blade,  8  points  to 
1". 

The  Finish  Saw,  22''  blade,  11  points  to 
1". 

The  Compass  Saw%  14"  blade,  8  points 
to  1". 
Hold  the  saw  at  right  angle  to  your  body 
nearly  45  degrees  upright;  make  an  even 
stroke  forward  with  a  slight  pressure,  low- 
ering the  handle  and  raising  the  point  in 
shoving  forward.  To  clear  the  chips  and 
keep  cutting  the  length  of  stroke,  keeping 
the  right  eye  in  line  of  the  saw  to  see  that 
the  saw  does  not  run  sideways.  Prevent 
any  side  motion  if  possible. 


SETTING  AND  FILING  SAWS 

Set  every  other  tooth  with  the  point  out, 
then  reverse  the  saw  and  set  the  other  side 
in  the  same  manner.  Place  the  saw  in  the 
vise  with  the  teeth  as  close  to  the  clamp  as 
possible  for  filing  to  prevent  vibration.  File 
toward  the  point  of  the  saw,  keeping  the 
points  the  same  height  and  the  front  edge 
of  the  tooth  slightly  back  from  perpendic- 
ular by  holding  the  file  at  the  same  angle 
for  all  teeth",  hold  the  file  back  20  degrees, 
and  upright  at  nearly  25  degrees;  the  more 
the  file  is  angled,  the  longer  the  point.  Cut 
the  same  amount  off  of  each  tooth  to  keep 
them  even.     (Fig.  74.) 


Ky 


FI0.74 

PLANES 

The  planes  most  commonly  used  are  the 

106 


jack  plane,  fore  plane,  jointer  plane, 
smoothing  plane,  and  block  plane.  The 
jack  plane  is  used  to  cut  the  rough  surface 
of  boards  and  timbers,  and  to  cut  the  high 
places  of  a  board  before  using  the  jointer. 
It  is  the  roust  about  plane  of  planes.  The 
fore  plane  is  used  to  fit  sash  and  doors.  It 
is  also  used  in  cutting  the  uneven  edge  of 
a  board  before  using  the  jointer.  The 
jointer  is  used  to  straighten  and  join 
boards,  and  is  frequently  used  instead  of 
the  fore  plane  to  fit  tHe  sash  and  doors. 
The  smoothing  plane  is  used  to  surface  a 
board  to  a  smooth  surface.  Begin  planing 
at  the  fore  end  of  the  board  and  work 
back,  also  at  one  side  and  work  across. 
Shove  the  plane  straight  forward,  not 
swerving  it  sideways.  In  shoving  the 
plane  forward  near  the  end  of  stroke, 
gradually  raise  the  back  end  of  the 
plane  to  raise  the  bit  at  end  of  stroke  to 
prevent  any  plane  marks,  and  keep  it  raised 
high  enough  to  clear  the  bit  in  drawing  the 
plane  back.  Drawing  the  plane  back  witfi 
the  weight  on  the  bit  dulls  it  more  than  the 
cutting.  Those  methods  should  be  observed 
with  all  planes.     The  block  plane  is  used  to 

107 


plane  the  ends  of  board  and  mould  joints, 
and  in  close  fitting.  The  bit  should  be 
ground  back  at  60  degrees,  keeping  the 
edge  squared  to  the  sides,  then  finish  on  an 
oil  stone  to  a  keen  edge.     (Fig.  76.) 


P051TIOK  TO  DRAW  BACK. 


CUTTIMG     P051T10K 

FIG.  76 


SCAFFOLD 

Set  2''x4'^  around  the  building  about  10' 
apart  for  upright  posts.  Nail  a  clear 
strong  board  on  the  2x4  at  the  proper 
height  for  the  scaffolding.  Saw  a  notch  in 
a  short  board,  or  2x4  the  width  of  the 
bracket.  Nail  the  block  on  the  bracket  and 
to  the  building.  Put  a  tie  of  1x6  sheeting 
in  line  of  the  brackets  to  all  upright  posts, 
put  a  cross  brace  on  the  uprights,  from  bot- 
tom to  line  of  scaffolding,  using  2^'xlO'^  or 
12''  plank  for  the  scaffolding.  High  scaff- 
olding should  have  heavier  upright  posts. 

108 


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A^ii  24  1933 


DEC -45  m. 
APR  11  1934 

MAY    4   1936 
AUG  2^^93S 

SEP    14    ;  ,, 


5tP  ^^  ^*'^ 


JAN  »9  ^94t 

JUL  23  \m 

FEB  23  1942 

FEB    281948 
MAY    5  1948 


^\i't\0? 


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C0477b3e53 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 


